Updated Route Conditions

Emmons-Winthrop, 8/26/2011

2011-08-26T11:38:00.000-07:00

The Emmons route is still in fine shape! At the top of the corridor the route traverses to the right and then follows a relatively direct path to the summit.

With the past few week's warm weather, crevasses have been opening and widening on the Inter Glacier and on the traverse from Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman. So take note of these hazards on the approach and be aware of them while descending.

All in all, the approach to Schurman and the route on the upper mountain remain in good shape and many parties had successful summit trips over the past week.

Little Tahoma 2011

2011-07-07T14:41:00.000-07:00

A group from the Washington Alpine Club climbed Little Tahoma over the 6/7 AUG 11 weekend, using the Fryingpan Creek trailhead route to Meany Crest. We had clear skies and very warm temperatures. We saw no other climbing parties in the area. Only saw one other camper near Meany. Our approach to Meany Crest took about 4 hours. Some of the rock areas leading up to the Meany Crest have pretty good climber paths in them. We melted water and found running water within 2-3 minutes walk of the campsite at Meany Crest on some of the nearby rocky areas.
We departed camp just after 6AM and we summited around 1PM. It is a long walk across Fryingpan Glacier to the Whitman Crest. Uneventful and some just opening up crevasses were easy to avoid. Whitman Crest easy to get over and rest at. From Whitman Crest we traversed onto Whitman Glacier and then up! Negotiated two crevasse areas and then started the haul up the loose rock to the false summit area.
Some of us down climbed the snow a bit and others did well plunge stepping down the top third of the Whitman Glacier and all of us plunge stepped the remaining two thirds back to the low traverse across the Whitman to Whitman Crest. We got back to the cars by 8pm.

Little Tahoma remains a hidden gem within Mount Rainier National Park. At just over 11,100 feet, it is one of Washington's highest peaks. A ranger patrol on Wednesday climbed Little Tahoma from Paradise. The approach up the Muir Snowfield to the traverse at 8,600 was uneventful. Crossing the Cowlitz Glacier took some navigating, but traversing up and around the ice fall in the middle was easy.

There's running water at Pebble Creek (at about 7,200 on the snowfield) and on the Whitman Glacier at about 10,000. Skiers had recently descended the snow field just below the summit rock spire. The snow hasn't started to "cup up" significantly. Climbers not on skis can always boot-ski. The snow conditions and slope angle make for an incredible run.

The summit scramble is still in great shape. The rock is as solid as it ever is, and the views, plus exposure on all sides, make for an awesome summit experience.

Success Cleaver 2011

2011-07-04T14:49:00.001-07:00

July 4th - The Success Cleaver is in great condition right now. The Tahoma Creek trail to the suspension bridge is all snow free. Above the bridge the snow starts - but it's still easy to navigate toward Pyramid Peak through the forest on snow.

There is still plenty of snow higher up on the route. As temperatures warm up, climbers may want to stay on the cleaver proper in order to avoid rockfall and traveling on soft snow. The picture below is of penitented snow at about 12,800 ft. At this point in the route, most climbers move to the right to avoid the steep cliff bands. The upper snow traversing and rock-band navigation is still very straight forward. Begin your climb early to avoid ice melting and falling off the rock later in the day.

It's possible to descend the route without any rappelling, but because of the distance required to exit via on of the West Side approaches most teams carry up and over.

Emmons-Winthrop 2011

2011-06-26T14:33:00.000-07:00

Emmons Winthrop - September 9th
This last week saw the closing of the hut at Camp Schurman for the fall and winter. The Climbing Rangers that work Camp Schurman would like to thank everyone who climbed through the camp for a great and relatively safe season, and look forward to seeing many of you next year. That said, you are free to climb without our presence at the camp. Please remember to register at the White River Ranger Station before your climb. The route remains in great shape with the only difficulty being in getting off the Inter-Glacier and onto the Emmons. As we have been advising: please start low and traverse onto the Emmons. The moat at this time is still rather easy to cross. Above the camp the route is straight forward, and follows the route described in previous blog updates.

August 26th

The Emmons route is still in fine shape! At the top of the corridor the route traverses to the right and then follows a relatively direct path to the summit.
With the past few week's warm weather, crevasses have been opening and widening on the Inter Glacier and on the traverse from Camp Curtis to Camp Schurman. So take note of these hazards on the approach and be aware of them while descending.
All in all, the approach to Schurman and the route on the upper mountain remain in good shape and many parties had successful summit trips over the past week.
August 17th

Climbers have been summitting via a very direct path to Columbia Crest, still. The E/W glaciers have been holding strong. Skiers have even been braving the less than ideal conditions on the upper portions of the glacier; as long as it's sunny the snow/ice/sun-cups can be shredded. Climbers are ascending up the Emmons "Corridor" until encountering a large crevasse, and then zig-zagging up and right (climber's right) toward the Winthrop. A direct path straight to Columbia Crest still exists - no need to traverse out to the Liberty Saddle.

Crevasses on the Inter Glacier (on the approach to Camp Schurman) have been opening wider. Please use caution! Watch where glissading paths lead, boot-ski under control, and consider the consequences of falling while traveling on the Inter Glacier. Though crevasses are opening, there are no large icy patches forming.
Make sure to stop in and get current route beta from the rangers at Camp Schurman. Enjoy!

August 5th

This week brings the end of the big guided parties. We also had a unroped crevasse fall on the Inter Glacier this week. So the time is ripe to remind people to rope up for the Inter Glacier as things are starting to melt out. The trail down to the Emmons from Camp Curtis (the ridge above the Inter on the climber's left) is starting to be more challenging so use your head and possibly start your traverse into the Emmons a bit lower then the climber's trail. This will avoid the nasty rock crossing. The route above Camp Schurman is rather direct and still in really good condition. Come prepared for daily route changes as things melt further out towards the end of August.

July 28, 2011 The Emmons-Winthrop remains in stellar condition. The photo above shows the directness of the route with only a few minor detours to circumvent crevasse and snow bridge hazards. Surface conditions consist primarily of firm snow with some rime-ice near the summit. Many parties have been summiting over the last week.

July 1st - The route up the Emmons continues to be in great condition. A thorough boot track, ground in by the many parties making summit attempts, can be seen on the approach from White River camp ground. Keep in mind though, always be wary of old tracks; just because previous parties have crossed does not guarantee security.
The crossing from Camp Curtis to the Emmons and up to Schurman is still in good shape although some crevasses are beginning to emerge.

Be sure to start climbs early as the warming days make the afternoon snow on the lower Emmons and Inter glaciers soft and sloppy.
Additionally, the trail from the White River camp ground to Glacier Basin is now about 60 percent melted out with intermittent patches of snow becoming completely snow by Glacier Basin.

June 24, 2011

The deep snow is persisting in many parts of the mountain making for excellent climbing conditions on many routes. Many climbers have been successful on the Emmons route due to a direct route and stable snow bridges, though climbers should always be roped on the upper mountain and aware of changing conditions. This photo (taken from the top of Steamboat Prow) shows a well-defined boot pack heading up the corridor and to the summit!

The snowy conditions are also making for excellent skiing with perfect corn on many aspects. The following photos were taken from a ski tour to the Fryingpan Glacier - where we skied all the way back to the car on on the 2nd day of summer! Bad news for Wonderland Trail hikers, but excellent news for ski mountaineers.

Little Tahoma and Mt. Rainier from the Fryingpan Glacier

Sun cups in the corn at the head of Fryingpan Creek

Emmons-Winthrop ~ June 15, 2011

The Emmons-Winthrop route on Mount Rainier remains in stellar condition. As can be seen from the photo, the line of ascent climbs nearly a straight line from the "the corridor" all the way to the upper bergschrund, which at the moment can be circumvented either to the climber's right (standard variation) or to the climber's left (a bit steeper but more direct), and then on to the crater rim.

Surface conditions as of late have been following the typical spring/summer trend of firm during the night and soft during the day under direct sun with the freezing heights hovering around 9,000 to 10,000 ft. Cramponing conditions have been excellent in the early morning hours and as summarized above, have allowed for a variety of routes between the corridor and the bergschrund ...some perhaps faster than others.

Additionally, numerous people have been summiting Liberty Ridge lately and have been descending the Emmons Glacier without any problems. The only real change worth mentioning from previous years to this line of descent is that the "shortcut", typically taken from the summit saddle between Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest directly to the Emmons, has finally succumbed to gravitational force and no longer really exists (unless you want to jump for it!). There is now currently a very wide crevasse that extends all the way across the top of the Winthrop Glacier from Russell Cliff to where the normal Emmons route joins. This makes for a short ascent up from the saddle towards the crater rim before being able to turn back down hill towards Camp Schurman.

And finally, the approach from the White River Campground is now considered to be 65% snow from the trailhead to Glacier Basin and 100% snow from Glacier Basin to Camp Schurman...so bring your skis if you are so inclined.
See you on the mountain!

Emmons-Winthrop~May 2nd, 2011

Climbing Rangers made it up to Camp Schurman and the summit over the last couple days travelling strictly on the Emmons Glacier. Access to the White River trailhead is still a bit problematic as the road remains snowed in... not due to open until May 21st. Once at the White River Trailhead however the route finding up the newly improved Glacier Basin trail (opened last summer) makes early season route finding on the snow a non-issue. (Hooray!) Due to avalanche concerns for the Inter-Glacier approach and overall aesthetics, a traverse was made approximately 1.25 miles up the G.B. trail over to the toe of the Emmons Glacier proper. This made for a very leisurely yet long skin up to Camp Schurman taking roughtly 6-7 hours total. This route was also used for the descent and will likely remain as a reasonable option for another month or so.

Reaching Camp Schurman, it became evident what kind of winter it had been on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier as the Schurman hut was completely buried and blown over with snow. Ironically, the outhouse was not nearly buried as deep...at least not on the outside! (see photo)

The next day, May 1st, brought appropriate conditions for a summit attempt which indeed panned out. It was an excellent opportunity to get a close-up look at the avalanche conditions on the upper mountain as well as get some of our new rangers more familiar with the route. As can be seen from the photos, the Emmons route is essentially in a "go anywhere you please" type of condition, in terms of coverage. The avalanche danger however was found to be on the scale of moderate with pockets of considerable in the more wind-loaded versus wind-scoured areas above The Corridor. On the upside at least was the lack of any significant wind-loading directly above the climbing route. Nearing the infamous "Bergschrund" at the top, the climbers left side was taken on the way up and the climbers right side on the way down. Both options seemed reasonable at the time although it was a bit dis-heartening for this troublesome glacial feature to already be so visible this early in the season.

All in all, it was a successful trip to begin digging out the high camp and checking on the climbing conditions for an anxiously anticipated climbing season on Rainier.

See you on the mountain!

Check out last year's photos and condition reports here.

Ptarmigan Ridge 2011

2011-06-21T16:44:00.001-07:00

August 9th, 2011

Yes, Ptarmigan Ridge is still remarkably "in"!!! The route

has full coverage from top to bottom and is probably 60% ice and

40% firm snow. We climbed while the freezing level was up to

14,000 ft. making for a comfortable night's stay at the high camp and since the sun doesn't reach the upper portion

of the route until 11:00am, we were able to sleep in a little bit.

Notes, the schrund at the bottom of the ramp

appears like an obstacle at first but is actually easily climbed up some easy rock and pumice without much deviation from the direct line. Making the traverse from the top of the ramp to the first snow/ice chute was probably the crux, requiring a horizontal traverse on steep water ice with great exposure. Once past the

traverse however, the climbing is classic with a mix of ice and snow that is well protected. The rock step at the top of the route, although tedious to access, was easily climbed in crampons on the right hand side where you can find one fixed pin for the 5.7 move. After this, you top out on the Liberty Cap Glacier and have a couple hours left of glacier travel

before reaching Liberty Cap. The route finding here was pretty straight forward but be sure to re-rope for glacier travel as several large crevasses are crossed or schrund bulges climbed.

Gear, 3-4 ice screws for simul-climbing and possibly a couple more if you want to actually pitch out the ice sections. We only used 2 pickets, which seemed adequate enough, and although not required, a small selection of

small to medium nuts could prove useful and on occasion save the use of an ice screw. 2 ice tools also make for a much better time while climbing.

All told, Ptarmigan Ridge is still in great shape and highly recommended...particularly over Liberty Ridge as the approach

for this climb has become troublesome at best. The photos above

and right more or less tell the whole story. Come check it out

while it still lasts.

See you on the mountain!

July 10th, 2011

Ptarmigan Ridge is in fantastic shape right now! The approach from Mowich Lake was mostly on firm, consolidated snow (in the am) and travel along the lower ridge (above spray park) was relatively efficient. The route above 10,3 camp (standard route, not ice cliff) had some awesome climbing on snow/ice. There were multiple sections of solid water ice and steep snow, you will definitely swing your tools. The climbing on the upper Liberty Cap glacier was straight forward, no major difficulties. The route seems like it will be in for a while longer, so get up here and enjoy some of the best steep climbing on the mountain!

June 15th -

Route appears to be in great shape. Prepare for a long approach through deep unconsolidated snow for a while still. The Mowich lake road is scheduled to open July 1st, but that is condition dependent. Check the Mt. Rainier road report for further information.

Kautz Cleaver 2011

2011-06-18T07:47:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Olympic Mountain Rescue for this route condition update. The Kautz Cleaver remains one of Mount Rainier's best but least traveled routes.

We approached via the Comet Falls trailhead at 3,600 feet starting at 2 pm on Friday afternoon, expecting to find very soft snow conditions. However,generally consolidated snow was found, with only a few stretches of shin-deep post-holing through Van Trump Park on our way towards the toe of the Cleaver.
With the late start we chose to make camp on flat terrain at about the 8,000’ level directly below the Cleaver. The clouds had parted above 7,000’ and we were rewarded with nice views and the promise of more good weather to come, backed up by a forecast which predicted calm to lights winds up high over the following 2 days.

After finally stirring and setting out around 7:30 am we decided to take the Middle Success Glacier alternate start. It was a toss-up with the Cleaver itself, since both looked equally filled in and straightforward. We reckoned the more westerly aspect of the Middle Success would provide more sun shade and stay firmer longer. At around 10,000’ the snow ramps merge in with the Kautz Cleaver. Firm snow conditions held out until around noon when things began to rapidly loosen up. We decided to dig in a camp at 11,500’ directly on the Cleaver in the early afternoon and have an early go at it the next morning. The views from this perch of the Kautz Glacier and Icefall are superb especially since we had another evening of gentle winds and clear skies. The location afforded a direct view of the Kautz Glacier just to the east, where we watched 2 parties of 4 descend from the mountain and spend over 2 hours to get down the first, steeper portion of the glacier. All 8 eventually ended up doing controlled glissades down the snow covered ice pitch. These were the only people we saw until reaching Point Success.
Several long pitches of crust over unconsolidated snow around 12,500’ did little to dampen the spirits of climbing higher on such a calm morning. Route-finding was real straightforward as the snow still has a very complete coverage up high. The airy traverse pitches above the Kautz Headwall were easily protected by long pickets. We found only a few short sections up towards 13,000’ of post holing, due primarily to leeward accumulations of wind-blown snow. The first sign of any wind was seen shortly afterwards by light spindrift coming off the rockbands higher above. The rockbands above 12,000’ were covered in rime ice. At 13,400’ we traversed westward around the rockbands above the South Tahoma headwall to reach a ramp leading to Point Success around 10:30 am.

We crossed to the main summit over a thick layer of loose dry snow carved into patterns by the summit winds. We began our descent of the DC route around 3 pm, which was by then loosened up by the long day’s full sun exposure. Following the wands was uneventful. The DC was particularly sloppy, and we noted that a couple pickets placed by the guide services for their fixed lines were quite loose.

We dropped down to Paradise at 8:30 the following (Monday) morning, where we checked in with rangers.

Sunset Amphitheater 2011

2011-06-16T15:21:00.000-07:00

June 18th - Courtesy of Seattle Mountain Rescue

With partly sunny skies, on the morning of June 17, 2011,Seattle Mountain Rescue members Gordon Smith, Keith Schultz, and Kellie McBee set out to climb one of the Sunset Amphitheater Headwall routes. Planning to carry over the mountain, we left one car at Paradise and drove a second car to the gate on the West Side Road. We hiked up the West Side Road more than a mile to the Tahoma Creek Trail, and ascended that trail. A flood event a couple years before had substantially re-arranged the valley bottom and deposited several feet of rocks and sand in an area several hundred feet wide and several miles long. Quite impressive to think about the force of water needed to move beach ball size rocks down the valley.

We reached the Wonderland trail and headed north on the trail. At about 4,400’ of elevation the trail become more snow covered than not. Once the snow became deep enough to hide the trail, the only sign of human presence was one set of tracks in the snow that ascended to a bit above 5,000’.

At 5,600’ we crested Emerald Ridge, between the tongues of the Tahoma Glacier, then ascended the ridge to its upper end. The clouds thinned, revealing fabulous views of the upper mountain. On other sides of Mount Rainier, it is a relatively monolithic bump. Below Sunset Amphitheater one has views south and east to the cliffs of Glacier Island and Success Cleaver, north to Tokaloo Spire, and up to Sunset Ridge, the Sunset Amphitheater Headwall, and Tahoma Cleaver. St. Andrews Rock is a distinct peak within the Amphitheater, and Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest appear to be separate peaks. With all the cliffs and peaks, it is almost like being in a mountain range, rather than being on a lone peak. The icefalls of the Tahoma Glacier add to the ruggedness.

Looking up Tahoma Glacier, from about 6,500’. St. Andrews rock is the symmetrical peak in front of the cloud near the center of the photo. Liberty Crest is obscured by the lenticular cloud on the left, and Columbia Crest is obscured by the lenticular cloud on the right.

We enjoyed the problem solving of choosing a route in the absence of wands, trails and tracks. Above 5,000’ we found the snowpack to be substantial, allowing clear paths up the glacier with alternatives avoiding the faintly darker bands of snow that suggested the shading of sagging snow bridges.

A major lenticular cloud formed over first Liberty Cap, covered both summits, then faded, then returned. We thought about the winds aloft, and thought about the weather forecast for generally decent weather until the next night, and the small weak system forecast to come through the next night. Hopefully, the weather would hold until we got high enough for the precipitation to be snow rather than rain, and hopefully the winds indicated by the lenticular cloud would fade before we got onto the headwall and the summit plateau. We did not think it odd that as the day got later and we gained elevation, the snow became softer. By late afternoon, at 7,500’ we were sinking shin deep with each step, and the winds were picking up.

We found a relatively sheltered camp on Puyallup Cleaver and were happy that the temperature was dropping as the sun descended. Hopefully we would have firm snow in the morning.

Some time around the middle of the night we awoke to the sound of rain on the tent. No big deal—the forecast included the chance of some small amounts of precipitation. However, it kept raining. Steadily. In the morning, the rate of rain decreased, but the rain continued. The temperature was well above freezing, the snow resembled a giant slurpee, and the visibility varied from a few hundred feet to a mile plus. We thought about snow bridges turned to slush. We thought about route finding with poor visibility. We thought about packing up sodden tents, and how wet our sleeping bags could get by nightfall, and how wet the feet of the person with non-plastic boots could get. But mostly, we thought about slogging in the rain.

We concluded that we had all been to the top of this hill before, we had accomplished the Park’s goal of assessing resource conditions (no sign of human-caused damage), and recognized that there was recent information on route conditions from other parties. Mostly we concluded that it would be really unpleasant to hike in the slush and rain, with the rain eventually turning to sleet. We decided to head down. With the rain, we did none of the sightseeing we had done on the hike up, and it took us only about four hours from our camp on Puyallup Cleaver to the car, without feeling that we were rushing.

This outing did provide benefit as a reconnaissance. All of us were impressed by the ruggedness of the scenery and appreciated the adventure of finding our own route rather than following the tracks of others. A descent of the Sickle Route looked very reasonable, and it appeared that one could see the entire Sickle Route (with the possible exception of the very top) as one ascended into the amphitheater, and scope out a descent route. Early season, one might ski most of the approach to a camp at 10,000’ or 11,000’ in the amphitheater, and ski out. With good visibility, one could choose a line up the headwall, tag the summit and avoid a carry-over by descending the Sickle Route back to a high camp.

As we wrung water out of our wet clothes at the car, all of us vowed to return again for an aesthetic climb.

June 16-

Rangers spent several days exploring the Sunset Amphitheater on the west side of Mt. Rainier and enjoyed excellent weather and climbing conditions. The Sunset Amphitheater is one of the most spectacular terrain features on the mountain as well as one of the most remote parts of the entire park.

There are two main established routes in the Amphitheater; the Sunset Headwall Couloir (pictured right) and the original Sunset Amphitheater Ice Cap route, which climbs between the two major walls forming the amphitheater.

The Rangers bivied at 11,200 ft and woke to clear skies above and set out for an ice-line on the right side of the Sunset Icecap. The climb was excellent technically and suspenseful as the top of the route was invisible from below and there were doubts as to how to exit onto the plateau above.

The climbing was classic, steep ice steps with some good easy mixed terrain and a spectacular traverse pitch on the ice cap.

Surprisingly the route gave an easy exit after the exciting traverse across the ice cap. A simple walk out onto the plateau above through a notch in the cap (below right) led quickly to the Sickle variation of the Tahoma Glacier and back to our camp.

Rangers spent the next day climbing directly up the Sickle route and carried over to Camp Muir via an excellent ski down the DC.

If climbers are interested in Westside routes this or a carry over to Camp Schurman offers a great full tour of the mountain. Sunset Amphitheater and the surrounding areas offered some interesting features including St. Andrews Rock, a natural ice arch forming below the ice cap and spectacular rime formations.

Tahoma Glacier 2011

2011-06-16T15:02:00.000-07:00

August 3rd

If you are looking for a route that offers stunning beauty, solitude, and something that will challenge your glacier navigation skills then the Tahoma Glacier is for you! With the summer temps finally starting to ramp up, some of the winter snow pack is finally receding, providing for easier access to remote routes. Access to the Tahoma route via the westide road is open finally, and the trails leading to the glacier are melting quickly, offering easier access to this hidden gem.

There are several approach options from the westside road, teams can approach via the Saint Andrews Creek trail and up to Klapatche Park, and on up to Saint Andews lake and finally onto the glacier. This option involves more road walking, but offers a direct line to the glacier, and access at a higher elevation, with excellent bivy sites along the Puyallup Cleaver.

Climbers may also choose to take the Tahoma Creek trail and access the wonderland trail. Next teams ascend the lower Success Cleaver, and cross the South Tahoma glacier over to the main body of the Tahoma itself. If you opt for this route get excited for some excellent glacier travel and route finding!

Get out and climb this remote and beautiful route before the summer temps melt the fun away!

June 16

This route is a northwest classic offering some of the longest and most varied route-finding of any glacier climb in the lower 48. Right now the route is in great shape, steep but not too steep, broken but with many opportunities for an ascent with good route finding.

The approach is typically done via the Westside Road and offers over 12,000 feet of vertical gain in one of the most remote regions of the Park. Plan on 3-4 days of approach and climbing and expect to see nobody else the entire time. This is a true wilderness experience not to be missed.

Fuhrer Finger 2011

2011-05-14T11:22:00.001-07:00

September 19th

This route is seeing very little traffic as of late. A large section of bare rock in the gut of the finger has running water will require a few storm s to fill in. The 3 inches of snow we got over the last few days is just a start. Climbers have reported that they bypassed the waterfall on some moderate mixed terrain.
The Van trump approach, starting at Comet Falls is a good choice for this time of year. You will start from a lower altitude, but you'll get a pleasant walk transitioning from forest to alpine meadow.
Carrying over and down the DC is recommended due to rockfall concerns.

August 11th

Although we didn't climb the route, while passing by the Fuhrer Finger and Thumb the access couloirs did not appear to be in good shape. Rock fall looks to be a significant objective hazard to get on either of the routes. The finger is probably the safer of the two. The crevasses above the Wapowety Cleaver have opened up and require you to traverse way out to the right. The attached photo is of the Thumb and Finger at sunrise on August 10, 2011.

August 4th

The Fuhrer Finger has been reportedly "gnarly for skiing" for quite some time, but climbing on the Finger has still been great. The hour glass feature toward the entrance to the "finger" has been getting noticeably smaller each day, but still remains in good enough condition to climb. The upper mountain above the "finger" has become more circuitous, but climbers have found that staying close to Wapowety Cleaver and just bumping out to skirt crevasses has lead them on a fairly direct path toward the summit.

July 23rd -

Here's a great trip report from Tacoma Mountain Rescue:
We set out via the Skyline Trail and down to the Nisqually Glacier crossing, then over to the Fan, encountering lots of folks above Paradise in sunny, warm conditions. Foot penetration was generally boot-top deep when stepping outside of the established track. The Nisqually crossing was straightforward. The view of the recent rock and ice fall up glacier was impressive! We were pleased that the existing boot track had not softened too badly, considering the strong heat of the day.We made our first camp on the western edge of the Wilson and settled in for the night. Tuesday turned out to be another sunny, clear day with lots of lowland cloudiness and occasional horsetails/lenticular formations near the summit. We encountered several parties, moving up or down from Camp Hazard.
We packed up that morning and moved to our high camp on the very western edge of the Wilson Glacier at about 9200 ft. The rest of Tuesday was spent relaxing in the warm weather and scouting the approach. We had a nice stream flowing through the rocks near our campsite. From here we had a great view of the Fuhrer Finger chute and a good look at most of the approach. Unfortunately, the traverse across the Wilson glacier looked quite broken from below our campsite; a common starting point from information collected earlier. We chose to start our route higher on the Wilson Glacier to make a more direct and lateral traverse to the Finger. After watching the weather signs and listening to the weather reports, we decided to try for the summit the next morning. We ate and drank steadily, monitored the weather (and the radio), and settled in for a rest.
We awoke at midnight to calm winds, a partial moon, and a clear view of the mountain. A perfect morning for climbing! We started climbing Wednesday morning at 1:30 a.m., moving up the hill from our camp to the point we thought would be best suited for a drop onto the Wilson Glacier (about 9600 ft.). In the dark, the best we could see involved a downclimb of steep snow and a traverse over an old slide debris path. Following three careful, belayed descent pitches, we were able to walk across a narrow snowbridge and gain the traverse. Just this portion of the climb ate up a fair amount of time but we were determined to ‘do this right’ as the runout from a fall would have ended in one of several huge crevasses lurking below. We did take a moment to consider bailing on this route and heading over to the Kautz route prior to starting the descent but concluded that if the line would not go, we could climb back out and revise the game plan. We moved quickly through the old debris field, taking the occasional glance uphill at the monsters that created it (the Kautz Icefall and the Wilson Headwall). Once we reached the base of the chute, we paused for a break in order to get ready for the big up. The weather was spectacular with no wind. The climbing from that point was excellent! Lots of suncups and firm snow in the chute made for ideal crampon conditions. The slope angle stayed consistent at 50-60 degrees. We moved steadily without setting any protection for about 1500 ft. before stopping at some running water on climber’s right near 11K. As we approached 12K, we could begin to see why we had been advised NOT to move climber’s right onto the upper Nisqually. Things were breaking up badly with many huge and open crevasses. The best looking line continued straight up, with the rock ridge on our left and the broken Nisqually to our right. By this time we were in direct sunlight and things were heating up fast. The snow was beginning to deteriorate, but climbing was still good and the slope angle had moderated a bit. We remained roped together as we started moving into more crevassed terrain. What had been a fairly straight line up was now turning into a series of switchbacks and more and more route finding through open and hidden crevasses. It's important to communicate to other would-be climbers of this route that it would be very difficult to bail off the route from this point on and up to around 12600'.
Our decision at that point was NOT to descend this route because we believed that a down climb in what was now rotten, steep snow would be difficult if not downright dangerous. We had talked earlier about the possibility of jumping on to the Kautz route for the descent and it seemed clear now that this was our best option. At about 13,200 ft. we topped out and paused to look across the snowfield to the Kautz route bootpath. It was late in the day, we were smoked, there were no other climbers in sight, and we were low on food and out of water. Although we had a stove and considered making some water and turning for the summit, we chose instead to head down with a feeling of great success despite not tagging the top. We traversed over to the Kautz track and made our way downhill. The path was very straight with just a few crevasses showing and the views were incredible!
Downclimbing the steep Kautz chute required no protection/belays but was a bit challenging in the very soft snow conditions and because of our fatigue levels. We traversed quickly under the icefall and over to the hand line to gain the ridge above Camp Hazard. Once over that ridge the winds became very strong but the skies remained clear above with lots of lowland cloudiness. We descended to camp and put a close to a very long but successful day.

June 2

The Fuhrer Finger is still in great shape for both climbing and skiing and should remain so for quite some time. Both the Wilson Glacier approach and the standard Wapowety Cleaver approach have seen traffic this past weekend and multiple parties have been making attempts on both the Finger and the Kautz. Consider taking your time and establishing a basecamp around 10000 ft in order to climb and ski a 'twofer.' Access from basecamp at this elevation includes the Kautz, the Finger, the Wilson Headwall and Success Cleaver. With so much late season snow the routes are in great early May-like conditions. Come on up and schralp some of the best skiing and climbing in the Northwest!!!

May 13th

The FF has been the line of choice for years, as an absolutley classic ski descent of an iconic peak offering up to 10 - 12,000 vertical feet of skiing. This year is no different with multiple parties having successful and enjoyable climbs and ski descents this spring. While snow conditions give the appearance of a heavy late spring snowpack, be aware that conditions are variable throughout with thin snowbridges over hidden crevasses, sastrugi and rockfall hazard through the lower half of the route. Do not think that being on skis is a substitute for proper glacial travel protocols with a rope, anchors, and the knowledge of how to use them. Please entertain roping up for the bottom and top glacier portions as well as wearing a hardhat throughout the route.

The skiing has generally been good with challenging, variable conditions. Watch the weather, plan and train appropriately, and come on up to GET SOME SOON!!!

Kautz Glacier 2011

2011-04-13T14:59:00.000-07:00

September 11th

The Kautz Glacier is great late season climb for those looking to get a little ice climbing in, and avoid the crowds. Right now there are several approach options to get to the Kautz. The Fan is still a viable option, however, it is melted out meaning teams would need to walk up through the scree. Option number two is the Wilson Bench approach, which is further north. The chute leading to the bench is still roughly 40-50% snow, leading teams to the broad Wilson Bench. The third option is approaching through the Comit Falls trail, and up through Van Trump Park. This approach adds 1,500 feet of vertical, but also takes climbers through several beautiful ecosystems, from the deep forest, and waterfalls to high alpine meadows and wildflowers. The high camps at both the Castle (9,200 feet) and the top of the Turtle snowfield are melted out and provide excellent bivy sites. Please remember to clean your camp well and use your blue bags while here.

The upper portion of the route and the two ice pitches are melted out, with a small section of snow remaining between ice pitches. Two tools are recommended for the ice, and some ice pro as well. Above the ice pitches there are several large cracks that offer fun glacier navigation. The route trends climbers right across the Wapowety cleaver and out onto the upper Nisqually before switch backing to the crater rim. The Kautz is still a great late season option for a fun, and quiet summit trip!

August 18

Rangers climbed the Kautz glacier route on Aug 15 and 16th. The Fan or Wilson Bench can still be used to approach (keep an eye out for rockfall), or the Comet Falls trail head adds another 1500' of vertical to the climb. The campsites at The Castle (9200') and the top of the Turtle Snowfield (10,800') are melted out and contain established bivy sites. Please continue to use these existing sites and make sure the area is clean when you break camp. The picture below is looking out across the lower Nisqually at the Fan (left) and Wilson Bench (center).

From the start of the climb at the top of the Turtle, the snow has melted enough that the rappel down the cliff band is now 10' to the glacier; two fixed lines exist but use at your own discretion. The lower chute is completely free of snow and a second tool is recommended even though the ice is very featured. Above the first pitch the bowl contains large penitentes which make for easy stairstepping to the base of the second pitch. This pitch still contains a small amount of snow on climber's left, but it will be gone soon. The picture below is from the top of the 1st ice pitch looking up the ramp to the second ice pitch.

Above the ramp the route heads left around a large crevasse and then can go several ways to the summit as described in earlier posts. The picture below is from halfway up the 2nd pitch looking down onto the lower Kautz glacier.

August 11

Approaching the Kautz via the Fan or the Wilson Bench is still in good shape but beware of rockfall. The traverse across the lower Nisqually is also still in good condition. A great place to camp is at 9,400 feet just below the Turtle Snowfield at the High Castle. There is running water here and lots of nice bivy spots.

Getting onto the Kautz ice ramp, you have several options. You can do the standard rappel down the cliff band, or if you climb high just above Camp Hazard there is enough snowpack below the hanging glacier that allows you to easily scramble down to the chute without rappelling. There are fixed rappel lines in place to access the chute but use these at your own discretion.

The ice on the ramp can almost be entirely avoided (except for the first 20 feet) by staying left on the penitentes. If you are looking for the ice, then staying right will give you 1-2 pitches of low angle ice. Either way, bring a second tool.

Above the ice ramp, you have several options. Some parties have continued straight up the Kautz Glacier proper to Point Success. This route is exposed to ice fall from seracs on climber's right but is faster and more direct. Another option and the route proper is to hang a sharp right above Wapowety Cleaver and take the long traverse around several large crevasses and then trend back left towards the crater rim. Below: The Turtle Snowfield and Kautz Glacier looking up the route from High Castle.

August 8

Yikes! Climbing rangers packed out nearly 100lbs of poop, garbage, and abandoned equipment from 9400' camp last weekend! So far this season we've been doing really well with keeping the Kautz/Finger high camps clean, what happened last week? Please make sure you check the area around your campsite before you head down off the mountain. Also, keep your camp nice and tidy so things don’t blow away, especially while you are off climbing. If we all contribute a little bit of effort, like picking up other people's garbage, we should be able to keep these camps in pristine condition!

Conditions on the Kautz Glacier route have been changing rapidly over the last few days due to unusually high temperatures. As of the 7th it was still possible to ascend the ice chute entirely on snow, but only barely. With continuing warm weather in the forecast, the route may become significantly more icy over the next few days. Climbers looking for a more challenging ascent can find great ice climbing along the right side of the route. Bring a second tool; you will have a lot more fun!

As far as the approach routes go, nothing much has changed. Things are still looking good above the Kautz Ice chute as well. There are multiple route options on the upper Kautz and Nisqually glaciers, all generally straight foreword. The more commonly travelled route traverses across the Wapowety Cleaver, out onto the Nisqually Glacier, then switch-backs around a few crevasses and heads straight for the crater rim. An alternative is to climb over the top of the Wapowety Cleaver and traverse directly over to the crater rim. This route involves steeper terrain but fewer crevasse crossings.

Again, it's a great time to climb the Kautz, hope to see you up here!

August 5

Climbing rangers climbed the Kautz Glacier route August 3rd and 4th to find the route in great shape, overall very direct thanks to lots of remaining snow lingering on the mountain.

The approaches from the lower Nisqually (the Fan and the ramp onto the Wilson) are still both being used by climbers, but beware of rockfall hazards on both of these approaches as snow continues to melt. For climbers looking for something a little different, approaching via the Comet Falls trail makes a beautiful alternative. This approach adds another 1,500' of elevation gain to the climb, but provides a real wilderness experience. Forests, mountain goats, meadows and waterfalls are the rule - it might be worth it!

Campsites at the Castle (9,400) and west of the Turtle Snowfield (10,600-11,000) are melted out with running water available near many of the sites while the temps stay warm. Please use only existing tent sites when camping in the rocks, there are many very nice ones available, so there is no need to go through all that extra work. Rangers would also like to thank all the recent climbers and guided groups for keeping the camping areas and the entire route so clean. We were able to climb and pick up very little trash and no left behind blue bags. All future climbers appreciate your efforts.

Above high camps the route takes a step down onto the Kautz glacier around 11,000'. At this time climbers are walking off the rocks using a handline with no rappel needed. Above there the Kautz ice chute is still in great shape, with a little ice starting to show at the bottom of the steeper climbing, but the ice is so featured and sun-cupped that its a veritable flight of stairs (bad news for skiers, though). Higher up the chute remains snowy for its entirety, with the same large sun cups providing solid footing. At this time a single ice ax is all that is needed for this route. Above the ice chute the route continues on a direct line to the top of Wapowety Cleaver and from there navigating around some large crevasses between 13,200 and 13,600 before taking another direct line to the top. Climbers are mostly descending back down the Kautz, since the chute is an easy walk off right now.

These conditions should persist for a while still, making August a great time to climb the Kautz!

July 5

Climbing rangers climbed the Kautz Glacier route over July 4th and 5th and found the route to be in excellent shape. Crossing the lower Nisqually is presently unaffected by the June 24th rock slide though climbers should move on through and avoid taking breaks in the area. There is still an unseasonably large amount of snow in the area, making scree slopes into a casual bootpack. There were many fresh ski tracks coming out of the Fuhrer Finger and a pair of beautiful tracks coming straight down the Wilson Headwall! The large amount of snow on the mountain is bringing the skiers out in force. Come get some July turns on the descent of your choice!

The Kautz Glacier has been getting a lot of action this year and there is currently a bootpack going straight up the ice pitch between the ice falls. What can be steep frontpointing on blue ice some years is currently a flight of stairs. Doesn't get easier than that - but be sure to start early to beat the mush and possible rock/ice fall.

June 2

Multiple parties have been attempting the Kautz Glacier route this past weekend. While finding soft snow on the approach almost all parties were able to cross the Nisqually and ascend Wapowety Cleaver without too much difficulty; however flotation is advised.

No direct reports from parties summiting but rangers have been in the area recently and report early season conditions with lots of fresh snow. The Kautz route offers a great alternative to the DC or Emmons and will continue to be in great shape for months given the current snowpack. Contact our Climbing Information Center for the most current conditions reports and consider a ski descent of this route or the Fuhrer Finger from the same basecamp.

April 13

Only two parties have been over to the Kautz Glacier area so far. The large amount of snow makes any upper mountain travel slow. Plan for extra time if you choose to attempt routes near the Kautz Glacier (Fuhrer Finger/Thumb, Wilson Headwall, etc.). Here's a link to last year's photos and condition reports for the Kautz Glacier.

Liberty Ridge 2011

2011-04-13T14:15:00.001-07:00

Liberty Ridge ~ July 11, 2011

Climbing Rangers made a two day ascent of Liberty Ridge over the course of the last shift and reported excellent climbing conditions... once on route. The photos below tell the basic story of the climb and the conditions. Although the route is expected to stay in good climbing shape through the end of July, the approach across the Carbon Glacier will likely prove troublesome by the beginning of August.

View of Liberty Ridge from Lower Curtis Ridge

Upper portion of route from Carbon Glacier

Lower portion of route includes cutting across the bergschrund from the Carbon glacier and then ascending straight up the "bowling alley" to Thumb Rock. Remember that it is called the "bowling alley" for a reason...be heads up! Snow conditions were firm with ice in some spots.

Thumb Rock

Lenticular clouds forming down-stream of Rainier

From Thumb Rock, the route still climbs left and then straight up to the Black Pyramid before traversing left again.

Climbing below the Black Pyramid with Thumb Rock in the background. Perfect neve snow made for secure tool placements, good cramponing, and quick climbing.

Nearing the top of the Black Pyramid after crossing left over to "the Ramp".

Excellent climbing conditions persist.

Bergschrund is still navigated on the left and requires several short but exposed moves on moderate water ice. Ice screws are recommended for this pitch as well as the exit pitch above.

Finishing off the route, just below Liberty Cap, with one more pitch of moderate ice.

All together, Liberty Ridge was still in great climbing shape and recommended to those seeking a little extra adventure getting across the Carbon glacier. Check with climbing rangers at the White River Ranger Station for the latest known conditions.

See you on the mountain.

July 1st -

Hunter and I went up Lib ridge on June 30-July 2. Crossing the Carbon was straightforward with a few end runs of larger crevasses. We took the direct line right up the steep snow slope to Thumb Rock, on the Liberty Wall side, to avoid the constant rockfall coming off the lower part of Lib ridge, although we still had to dodge a few missiles on that slope.

After Thumb Rock the route is mainly hard and featured snow/snice with some ice beginning to show near the Black Pyramid, although staying out in the middle of that upper slope avoided it. Crossing the berg is an easy pitch of low grade ice as well there is another longer pitch of low grade ice to get onto the last portion of the ridge before walking up to Liberty Cap. Overall the route was in great shape and will probably remain with similiar conditions for at least another week or so. - Henrik

June 16th

Liberty Ridge is "in" and the climbing is great! The route up from Glacier Basin to St. Elmos Pass then across the Winthrop is still very snowy, making the Winthrop crossing pretty easy but potentially very postholy. Traveling very early in the day or using some sort of snow flotation device will make the approach go much quicker. The best-advised approach to the base of Liberty Ridge is now going up the center of the Carbon, then trending climber's right and gaining the base of the ridge on the west side.

The route proper is still mostly snow covered, although there is the snow-ice mix beginning to show in some areas above the Black Pyramid. Climbers will run into a bit of technical climbing high on the route crossing the schrund around 13,400'. Climbers have been navigating over the schrund on the climbers left side where there is currently a steep ramp leading to the lower angle slopes of Liberty Cap. To descend, parties will have to carry over to the Emmons, meeting up with that route in the 13,600' area, as there is a giant moat stretching across the length of the saddle at the top of the Winthrop.

June 9th

Since the White River road opened just over a week ago Liberty Ridge has seen its first climbing traffic of the season. We haven't received a very detailed report of the route as of this time, but rangers did get an opportunity to scout the route from the air and it appeared to be in great shape (like pretty much everything else on the mountain). This picture is of the upper part of the route, and shows lots of snow, a little bit of ice, and a few climbers making their way over the bergschrund. Stay tuned for more detailed reports as rangers get out on climbing patrols in the near future.

April 13th

No winter ascents have been done of Liberty Ridge, yet. The White River Entrance is scheduled (weather dependent) to open May 21st. Mowich Lake road is also currently closed. It is scheduled to open July 1st (this date varies quite a bit, but a better estimate will be available as the time nears). Here is a link to last year's photos and trip reports on Liberty Ridge.

Gibraltar Ledges/Chute 2011

2011-04-13T13:36:00.000-07:00

September 11
Gib Ledges has seen very little (if any) traffic over the last month. From the Muir Snowfield its obvious that there is no snow coverage for most of the traverse below Gib Rock. From Camp Muir the upper Cowlitz Glacier looks debris-ridden and improbable. The only way to approach the Ledges would be on the ridgeline, which presents with 2000ft of climbing on exposed scree. With warm temperatures, increased rock-fall activity, and unstable scree/talus slopes abound, Gib Ledges no longer seems like a practical way to obtain the summit. We'll need another good round of snow (i.e. winter) to bring the ledges back into shape. Look for more updates this winter, and as we approach the 2012 climbing season...

Thanks Ledges (for all the good times)!

July 3rd
Gib Ledges is still proving to be a great escape from the crowds on the DC. Accessing the route is still straight forward: pass the Beehive and ascend to the base of Gibraltar Rock. From here the ledges are melting quickly with the high freezing levels, but they still go! The small rock step is melted out, and is a rocky scramble, but easily managed. The chute is still in good shape, as is the upper mountain. Use caution and glacier travel techniques once above Camp Comfort as there are open crevasses.
The route currently offers one of the best shows in the park, a front row seat of the rockfall event that occured on June 26th off the Nisqually Cleaver. The route is an up-close and personal way to get a view of this still active geologic wonder, yet from a safe distance and out of any debris fall path. Cruise up and get a piece of this route before the summer sun melts it all away!

June 30th
Rangers had a great climb on the ledges on the 27th! Some of the snow has melted off of the ledges themselves, leaving a bit of scrambling/scree, but the route is definitely still possible. Multiple options still exist for accessing the start of the ledges. The upper part of the route (upper nisqually glacier) is in great shape. Climbers are able to take a fairly direct line from the top of Gib Chute all the way to 13,500, where it meets with the DC route. There where few obstacles as far as cravasse management, however parties should still follow their standard glacier travel techniques. The DC is getting busy, if you feel like getting away from the massses and taking a more direct line up the mountain, Gib Ledge is a great option. Be prepared for some loose rock, and dont forget the helmet!

June 23rd
Gib Ledges is still a go! Rangers were on the route over the past few days and found excellent conditions. The route is being climbed almost daily right now, and it is still providing a great alternative to the DC, and a nice escape from the crowds. Most parties are choosing to ascend the ridge from Camp Muir and cross behind the "beehive", as the Cowlitz glacier is starting to crack up. Once the ledges are gained at the base of Gibralter rock, the route is straight forward, with one rock step being melted out. The exit into Gib chute is also in great shape. From the top of the chute, climbers have been ascending the upper Nisqually, trending climbers right to join in with the DC route for the walk to the crater rim. Make sure to remember your brain bucket, as the temperatures have been rising and rocks have been falling on the route.

June 9th

Gib ledges is still "in", being climbed and all of that. Many climbers have been choosing to climb the ledges, which is the most direct and scenic route to the summit from Muir, and then descending the DC. This route should stay in good shape for a few weeks if our current weather persists.

June 1

Plenty of new snow and cold temps have maintained the Gib Ledges for an extended period.It is still the most direct route from Camp Muir. This route should be in excellent shape for at least another month. Come on up and get 'er!

May 26th

With the cold temps and fat snowpack, Gib ledges (and the Chute) continue to be in excellent climbing shape. This is the most direct route from Camp Muir to the summit and follows a very scenic line on the west side of Gibraltar, offering spectacular views of the Nisqually Ice Cliff and a little more solitude for climbers seeking a true wilderness experience.

From Camp Muir access to the entrance to Gib Ledges follows the most obvious line toward the Beehive, negotiating one of two open crevasses. A few climbers have been staying on the top of the ridge as much as possible while accessing the ledges; this route is a little more time consuming but does offer less exposure to avalanche-prone slopes from the Cowlitz above Camp Muir. Once in the ledges climbers can expect a rewarding climb, 100% snow covered, all the way through the top of Gib Chute. Above there a direct and clean line will take you all the way to the summit. Descend via Gib Ledges, the ID or the DC back to Muir.

May 1st

Conditions above Muir and through Gib Ledges are still very winter-like, with lots of snow on all parts of the route. The route itself should be very straightforward, with snow conditions dependent on the current weather.

Avalanche conditions will persist for some time still, so be sure to fully assess the weather and snowpack before and during your climb.

April 13th

Teams have summited via this route earlier this year. Full-on "winter conditions" can be expected. With week-long winter storms still passing through the area, avalanche conditions and visibility can vary from 'great' to 'poor' within a couple of hours. Though this is considered by many to be the "standard" or easiest route in winter conditions on Mount Rainer, be prepared for extreme cold and lots of snow. Here is a link to last year's reports for Gibraltar Ledges/Chute.

Ingraham Direct 2011

2011-04-13T13:27:00.000-07:00

June 5th - A large crevasse grew even wider within the last couple of days making progress up the ID impractical. Climbing teams have switched to climbing on the Disappointment Cleaver route. Check here for the DC route conditions.

June 2- As of yesterday the ID was the main route of choice out of Camp Muir. Rangers summited Sunday the 30th in good weather. However, yesterday guide services attempted the route and found a key bridge at 11,700 had collapsed or otherwise disappeared. They have turned their attention to the DC as an alternate route to the summit. Stay tuned as the Muir Corridor is in flux right now and we should have current updates available by phone beginning this afternoon. Conditions on the upper mountain are changing daily and it remains to be seen if the ID will see further ascents.

That said, the mountain is in great shape with most all routes offering good climbing. Don't hesitate to come up and enjoy the forecasted good weather on the upper mountain!!!

May 29th

Above is a snow profile from the 28th on the Ingraham Direct. Avalanche conditions turned climbers around on the 29th. The instability came mostly from wind transport the night before. There are still some things to keep an eye on but the route got pushed trough on the 30th.
The Ingraham Direct provided passage to the summit for 2 parties on the 30th, despite multiple difficulties on the upper part of the route. Finally, after 4 weeks of training, climbing rangers where able to summit from Camp Muir! A fixed rope up a short section of exposed climbing on steep snow is required in order to cross a large crevasse at approx. 13K. Climbers may need to traverse out climbers right (towards the Emmons) to find an alternative passage. The route above 13k seems highly dynamic right now due to rapidly changing snow and crevasse conditions. Climbers hoping for a good shot at the summit should be prepared to route find and negotiate crevasse crossings without reliance on other parties. That being said, much of the snow was firm and supportive making for some fun and efficient climbing. The route is still taking a relatively direct and highly aesthetic line straight up the center of some serious glacier terrain. If you are ready for some amazing climbing, and a legit mountaineering experience, get up here and take advantage of the Ingraham Glacier while it lasts!

May 26th

The ID is still the standard route of choice for climbers ascending out of Camp Muir. The climbing is fairly straightforward glacier travel, although there are a couple of more broken sections of glacier that require crossing thinning snowbridges. Be prepared to give your climbing partners a belay over these bridges along the route, or look for alternate ways of bypassing the thinner parts.

New snow on the upper mountain should improve conditions in the short term for the ID, but how long the ID remains the route of choice from Camp Muir will depend on weather and the condition of snow bridges on the middle section of the route. Climbers should maybe consider Gib Ledges, which remains in stellar shape, or exploring the DC.

May 13th

The ID is in great condition, though it is changing rapidly. If you are planning on climbing the ID, get on it soon, as it seems to be thinner than might be expected for such a snowy spring. Accordingly, it should be noted that there were some crevasses to be crossed on the route with thin bridges. The potential to route find and navigate around new hazards exist daily; do not assume that yesterday’s track is good for today. That said, travel early morning has offered excellent neve conditions and a generally direct route to the summit.

Disappointment Cleaver 2011

2011-04-13T12:54:00.000-07:00

September 28th

After a few days of snow, rain, and heavy riming the DC is in an interesting state. Early this morning a thick crust turned two parties around near the bottom of the cleaver. Later in the day rangers wanted to see if the solar input was breaking down the crust. We were surprised to find the route in great shape in the afternoon. The cleaver is filled in enough to make for pleasant climbing, which is a nice change of pace from watching your crampons spark on the rocks.
Gaining the Emmons shoulder requires a little "heads up", but it is still reasonable. Up high the suspect crossings are starting to fill in nicely, but they could of course deteriorate again before winter.

Before the crust refroze tonight it had dehydrated a little making for more secure cramponing. However it is still a hard surface and there are several areas that have serious exposure. Running pro is justified in a few spots so don't be afraid to use it.

So all of this sounds great and I hope you are calling in sick and packing your bags right now. However, there is one last obstacle to mention. Between Cathedral Gap and Ingraham Flats the crust did not break down and it's thick and slick. We used front points and picks for about 75 feet. Tomorrow's high freezing level might have an impact on it, but the area gets so little sun that I would not hold my breath.

September 26th

Looks like summer is finally on the way out, with cold, wet weather coming back in. The last weekend of September, which was dominated by below-freezing temperatures and wind speeds in excess of 70 mph, provided little opportunity for climbers to reach the summit. This morning, rangers at Camp Muir opened their door to find a fresh dusting of snow, with a few drifts up to 2 feet deep! We may have a few more days of warm weather left, but Camp Muir has been winterized and we are anticipating the start of snow accumulation on the upper mountain.

Climbers looking to head up onto the DC can definitely expect to find “off-season” climbing conditions. Guide service activity has come to a screeching halt with the recent weather. At this point most of the fixed hardware has been removed from the route, including the ladder at 13,800’ and the confustication of fixed lines on the Emmons Shoulder. Any wands that were left high on the route are probably now in Yakima after Saturday night’s gale force wind event. Short story: climbing on the DC from here on out requires a high level of preparedness and self-sufficiency, treat it as if it were a non-standard route. Keep in mind that the avalanche hazard will be factoring it’s way back into the equation as we enter a new cycle of snow accumulation. Good luck up there, stay safe, and please let us know you are up there by self-registering!

September 21st

It only takes a day or two of good weather and the route has been re-established and it is looking good. Guide services are heading up daily and tonight looks like a great night to climb. The weather forecast for the next several days looks decent if not some high winds, but it's very pleasant at Camp Muir right now and relatively warm.

September 19th

The first snow of the winter arrived last weekend. Blistering winds brought in around 2 inches of precipitation. Snow drifts up to climber's knees have been causing difficulties for teams trying to summit. It's hard to predict how conditions will unfold later in the week as nicer weather returns. Disappointment Cleaver and Cathedral Gap are now covered in a loosely consolidated snow layer.

Though the path the route takes hasn't changed, the high winds (gusting to 70 mph) many of the wands have blown off the mountain and drifted in the climber's trail, making navigation difficult. Make sure to have a GPS or solid map/compass/altimeter skills to help navigate on the upper mountain!

September 14th

The DC continues to provided relatively straight foreward access to the summit for climbers who are confident with their crevasse negotiation skills. The main challenges continue to be the crossing on the Emmons shoulder at 12,600, and the crossing at 13,800. Additionally, warm weather has continued to pry open a crevasse near the top of the cleaver, which now has a fair bit of unstable bridging and exposure.

The crevasse just above the cleaver is easy to walk across, but the sharp turns in the route and
abundant snow bridges make it dificult to keep the ropes tight and inline. Parties should be prepared to belay this section, especially as it continues to break apart over the next few weeks.

The "complex" of snow bridges at 12,600 near the Emmons Shoulder is falling apart more and more every day. An alternative path was put in just to climbers right and below the original route. Both paths utilize fixed lines and end in the same place, but the new route does not have a ladder and appears to be more stable, although it is a little more exposed. Again, the conditions are changing very rapidly in this section of the route, you will have to decide when you get there which way looks better to you. Be prepared to set your own belays, and don't ever trust fixed lines unless you inspect the anchors yourself. They melt out daily!

The remainder of the route is in great condition, and the snow seems to be staying firm later into the day, now that we are headed towards fall. With the relatively stable weather we have had recently, conditions are overall great for climbing the DC. Remember that self-registration is in effect during the week, so plan ahead and make sure you check weather and route conditions before heading into the park. Hope to see you up here!

September 11th

With absolutely splitter weather the mountain has been changing rapidly, but holding up amazingly well! The DC has still been in great shape, providing many climbers with great summit climbs.
This time of year is a great time to get on the upper mountain and avoid the crowds. The guide services are still running trips through the end of the month, but the number of independent climbers has gone down, especially mid week, offering more of a wilderness experience on the most popular route on the mountain.
The route itself is still holding strong for mid-September. The main concerns right now are crevasse bridges and rock fall. The Emmons shoulder now has a ladder over the crevasse system at 12,600, which is a little bit hollow beneath. As always, if you are uncomfortable with what you see, set a picket and belay team members across, or take an alternate route that your team likes better.
The cleaver itself is still partially snow, and partially rock, there are many options, both on the rocks and the snow. Generally the route is going out to the spine, then angling up and climbers left before switch backing through snow and rock to the top of the cleaver.
The upper portion of the route is in great condition, being largely the same as it has been for weeks. The ladder at 13,800 is still in place, however, make sure to check the anchors for yourself before your team crosses.
Come on up and enjoy the amazing late season weather and conditions!

August 28th

It's been roasting up on the mountain the last few days, but the climbing has still been great. The intense heat has some impact on crevasse conditions on the upper DC. The main concern right now is the large crevasse at 12,600 ft. on the traverse over to the Emmons shoulder. It's been prying its way open for a while and the bridge/plug is getting to be fairly hollow underneath. Hand lines were established a few days ago, but they add only slightly to the overall safety of the crossing. Not much can be done other than maintaining a tight rope and trying to climb through this section as early as possible. With the extreme heat we've been experiencing, the afternoon is not a great time to be climbing around on this thing...

There's a ladder in place at 13,800 ft. It's well anchored and has handlines and pickets for running belays if you want to use them. This crossing is definitely one of the bottleneck spots on the route, so have a plan and try to move through here quickly.

Not much else to say about the DC. The snow is melting off of the the cleaver rapidly. There are multiple route options both on and off of the snow. As always, be highly conscious about rope management,as it's a major factor in minimizing rock fall (keep those ropes short and off the ground).

The guide services are still going strong on the DC, but the number of independent climbers is dwindling. There has been space available in the public shelter on most nights. If you are looking for a little more solitude come up to camp muir during the week, it's getting pretty quite!

Early-August
The DC remains in great conditions with minimal rock groveling while maintaining firm bridges and easy travel. Many, many climbers have made the summit this past week and climbing rangers were no exception. Rather than say a bunch of stuff you already know, here are some photos from a week on the upper mountain to up the stoke:

August 16th

Summer still reigns on the upper mountain. See earlier posts on this thread for great tips and details on the Disappointment Cleaver. Overall the route continues to be in stellar shape. Well-prepared teams are summitting without any issues. Cracks on the upper part of the route (above the cleaver) continue to widen, but with a little bit of a running start, and courage, crossing these crevasses poses no problem.

Check out the picture of the traverse from the top of the cleaver to the Emmon's shoulder. The traverse is actually a welcome respite from the constant "up" and "down" of the rest of the route. Enjoy the route while it still goes easy!

August 8th

Summer is finally here; the DC is still in great shape for August and is more reminiscent of July climbing. There is plenty of time for you to attempt the route in relatively straight-forward conditions. Sunset or early morning climbs are highly recommended as cooler temperatures provide for more enjoyably climbing. If for whatever reason you do climb during the day, remember to bring lots of water and that the increasing heat of the day can contribute to collapsing serac ice and weakening snow bridges.

Yesterday, another climbing ranger and myself climbed the route twice from Camp Muir. The first climb started at 2:30am, our second climb started at 7am. Even by 7am, the temperature had risen signficantly. Freezing level has been hovering right around 13,000 feet. The night time/early morning temperatures are perfect. Our second climb later in the day I did entirely in a base layer all the way to the summit crater rim and it was uncomfortably hot.

The route is still in good shape, wanded with a good boot pack trail. There is one ladder in place to cross a small crack on the Ingraham Glacier on the traverse below the Ice Box to access the toe of the Cleaver Photos were taken on August 13th, the upper photo shows the traverse off the top of the cleaver, the lower photo shows the amount of snow still on the cleaver itself (lots for this time of year).

August 3rd

The DC is still in AMAZING shape for early August. Refer to post below for current route information. One alternative, and a great way to get some solitude on one of the most popular routes in Cascades is to consider a "Sunset Climb".

Rangers recently set of from Camp Muir just after the sun set behind the mountain, and climbed the route in complete solitude in time to catch the amazing sunset from the summit. This type of climb can help you avoid the crowds, and do your descent as the temps drop for the evening, providing firm cramponing, and overall excellent conditions. Use caution while descending in darkening conditions, and bring some extra layers!

Come on up and get a piece of the fun while it is still in phenomenal shape!

August 2nd

The beautiful summer weather is finally here, and lots of teams are still getting after it on the upper mountain. The DC route is still in great condition considering it's early August. Some important updates on the route:

-The route up to Camp Muir is finally beginning to melt out. Please stay on marked trails when not traveling over the snow.

-There are several crevasses opening up near the climbing trail in the Ingraham Flats area,so stay alert.

-The fixed lines have been removed from the cleaver. The toe of the cleaver is mostly rock, and then the route returns to the snow and switchbacks up to the top of the cleaver.

-There are some large crevasse crossings above the cleaver. The snowbridges covering these crevasses will continue to melt as the warm, sunny weather works its magic. Inspect snowbridges for yourself and don't assume they are safe because another party crossed them two hours earlier.

That's about it! The mountain is waiting for you!

July 22nd

So while the lowlands and city areas have been obscured by clouds most of this past week, the entire upper mountain has been mostly sunny, warm, and despite a few hours of breezy conditions one day, a wholly pleasant place to spend time.

As for the DC route specifically, it's in about the best shape anyone could hope for in mid-summer. The route makes an easy crossing of the Cowlitz, climbs a mostly snow covered Cathedral Gap, and proceeds over easy ground to Ingraham Flats. From Ingraham Flats the route gains the toe of the cleaver by passing underneath a sizeable icefall area. It is recommended that climbers move fast through this area...especially if you find yourself descending late on a warm day! Those chunks of ice didn't grow on the glacier.

Once on the cleaver climbers will traverse an increasingly rocky path until they reach the spine of the cleaver. There are still fixed lines that are maintained by the guide services to assist climbers who might feel uncomfortable with the slight feeling of airiness on this part of the route. Use the ropes with caution, and as a hand line only please, there is no need to Jumar up these lines. Above the toe climbers can either switchback up the moderate angled snowfields on the west side of the cleaver or travel in a direct line up the spine of the cleaver. Either way you choose watch out for other climbers and be aware of the entire situation at all times. We do advise climbers to take up coils and short rope their teams up this section of the route. This makes it easier for all groups by creating more space for other climbers and making it easier to walk up the tight switchbacks. Since there are no crevasses on the cleaver proper, full stretched out ropes are not needed for safety. Let out your coils once above the cleaver and continue in normal fashion.

Above the top of the cleaver the route makes a long traverse out to the Emmons shoulder, before returning to a more upwardly direction. From the end of the traverse the route climbs some very well entrenched switchbacks all the way to the crater rim. This part of the route is still very solid at the moment, although it does cross a few sizeable crevasses on the way to the top. The snow bridges are still very thick, but as the weather warms up (I'm still optimistic it will happen at somepoint) the condition of these bridges can change rapidly. Always make decisions based on current conditions and what you see as you climb. I would like to also take this opportunity to throw out another piece of advice...large snowbridges over large crevasses are not a wise place to take a break, and if you put a picket into the snowbridge to clip yourself into, well it probably won't help you when the ground falls out from under you. There are many great places to take a rest on the climbing route. Please choose wisely.

Also remember that since this route can sometimes, if not often, be very crowded, it is a common courtesy to allow climbing teams moving faster than yours to pass. If the passer and the passee both work together on this, it ends up going faster for all persons.

Yeah! Climbing! Whoo!

July 17th

The past couple of days have seen some poor weather on the mountain with high winds, low visibility, and even a little new snow accumulation. But fear not, as moderate weather is predicted for the upcoming week. Expect to see some fresh snow drifts on the SE side of the route. Fixed lines are still up on the Cleaver, but as always check their security before using, and don't prussik into them. Skiing is getting difficult due to the large penitentes and suncups on the snowfield. Overall, the route is in great condition, so come on out and hit it!

July 12th

Not much is new with the DC route. Snow is melting off quickly, creating more exposed loose rock below cathedral gap and on the cleaver, but the terrain is still manageable. The hand-lines on the nose of the cleaver are becoming impractical with the large volume of traffic on the route, so many climbers are choosing to "switchback" up the nose instead. The route above the cleaver hasn't changed much in the last week or so. It still wanders around on the Emmons Glacier, but nothing out of the ordinary as far as crevasse issues. Overall the route is still good, its a great time to come up and climb!

July 3rd

The DC is still in great shape for this time of year. While the route is circuitous, it is in solid shape. Cathedral Gap remains largely covered with snow, however rockfall is increasing off of cathedral rocks. Once up to Ingraham Flats the route is heading straight up until it bends climbers right under the ice fall on the Ingraham, which has grown quite active with the warm summer temperatures.

The fixed lines remain in place accessing the cleaver and up the bottom 1/3 of the spine of the cleaver. As noted in the previous post, many climbers are simply using these as a "hand line" while traversing. The cleaver itself is still 95% snow covered, making for great travel up and down.

Above the cleaver the route almost immediately traverses climbers right to gain the Emmons shoulder, before making switchbacks up and climbers left toward the crater rim. Some crevasses are starting to show through, but are still easily negotiable. Come on up and enjoy this classic route while it is still in prime condition!

June 30th

The DC has been highly dynamic over the last week. Lots of warm weather has caused daily changes in route conditions, but overall it seems to be doing pretty well. There is still a fair amount of snow on the cleaver, but the upper part of the route is beginning to wander all over. Expect a long and circuitous traverse out on the shoulder of the Emmons glacier.

There are still many fixed lines on the traverse from Ingraham Flats and on up the "nose" of the Cleaver. Climbers have had issues with long wait times at some of these lines, so we are encouraging people to use efficient technique when utilizing the fixed lines. Frequent transitions at picket anchors make prussiking/jumaring on these lines impractical, and many independent climbers are even choosing to utilize them as hand lines only, thereby avoiding "clipping-in" all together. Also, be mindfull of were you stop to take breaks, certain areas on the lower DC route are more prone to rockfall and icefall.

This is a great time to come out and climb the DC, conditions are good and the weather is finally acting more like summer. Keep a look out for warmer temperatures and unstable snow bridges! That said, parties who are comfortable with standard glacier travel techniques can expect minimal challenges in reaching the summit.

June 22rd

Climbing rangers have been out and about on the DC route the past several days. The route is in great condition, and the guide teams have been doing a super job with maintaining this trade route on the mountain.

Parties will find fixed lines along the bottom half of the cleaver that have been placed by the guide teams. Remember to check the snow pickets if your team decides to clip (not prussik) into these lines.

Above the cleaver, the route currently switchbacks up to 13,000' before making a long traverse east over to the shoulder of the Emmons Glacier. The route then switchbacks towards the southwest entrance of the crater rim. Several crevasses still containing snow bridges must be crossed on the route.

It takes most teams the same time to go from Camp Muir to the summit as it did to get from Paradise to Camp Muir. (And half that time to get back down to Camp Muir from the summit). There are currently two foxes diligently patrolling Camp Muir for messy camps and food left in packs. Please remember to store all food zipped up inside your tent.

June 16th

The DC has been the scene of dozens of summits in the last few days with the route well beaten in by guided groups and independent parties alike. It is in great shape and should remain so for quite some time.

Currently, the route has hand-lines on the traverse over to the Nose of the Cleaver and the bottom third of the Cleaver proper has a hand-line as well. Please be mindful of these hand-lines; do not prussik onto them nor should one regard them as 'bomber'. The route takes a hard climber's right onto the Emmons shoulder at 12,500 and then zigs back towards the Cleaver on a long traverse above the ID. While circuitous it is the easiest and most heavily traveled route on the mountain with very little in the way of open crevasses on the route.

Please climb with care and keep the route clean. Take bluebags on summit day and use them! Be mindful of the local fox 'Slim Shady' as he is climbing this route almost daily picking up climber scraps. Also, zip your food into your tent, not your vestibule. The fox has ruined more than one summit attempt by grabbing breakfasts left out in climber's vestibules.

June 5th

Teams have been summitting via the DC for the last couple of days. Multiple guide companies sent guides up the route to "punch it in" - establish a wanded, boot-packed, and switch-backed route up the cleaver. Overall the DC is in great shape. It's totally snow covered making for great cramponing and quick access to the upper mountain. Stop in and chat with the climbing rangers at Camp Muir to get up-to-date snow conditions as these will change everyday.

June 1st

The DC is poised to become the route of choice out of the Camp Muir corridor. Guide services began staging fixed rope and explored the route from Ingraham Flats over to the nose yesterday. As with most of the mountain, conditions appear snowy and a month late compared to recent years but this should guarantee the longevity of this route through the peak season.

For those looking for a good summit ski descent the Cleaver offers good snow coverage with very little rock exposure at this time. Come on up and check in with the climbing rangers for the latest on the DC!

April 13th

No climbing teams have been on this route yet. All climbing teams have been using the Ingraham Direct. Eventually the Ingraham Direct will melt out and become too broken to ascend and climbing teams will transition to using the DC. We'll update this page as that happens.

Here's a link to photos and condition reports from last year.

Camp Muir and Muir Snowfield 2011

2011-04-13T12:31:00.001-07:00

November 3rd, 2011

Temps are in the single digits this morning up at Camp Muir. Winds have calmed to 30 mph but it was sure howling yesterday with sustained speeds over 80 mph with maximum gusts over 100.

Most importantly it is still super icy up here and on the snowfield, with boilerplate ibare ice in large stretches and under a very few inches of snow in others. There aren't many times that one wants a pair of crampons to get up to Camp Muir, but this is one of 'em (see Stefan's post just below).

October 28th, 2011

Glenn and I left Paradise on one of those really nice autumn days for a good fall check-up on Camp Muir. It had been at least 10 days since we've had rangers up there. There was snow in the shadowy places on the trail leaving Paradise. By Glacier Vista, there was a good 3" covering the trail. It turns out we weren't the only people looking for a good hike today, as there were many people ahead of us.

Since it hadn't been that cold yet, there was still water flowing at Pebble Creek when we crossed it. We hopped up on the snow below Sugarloaf at about 7300 feet. On steeper sections we were having trouble getting any traction. We'd slip and quickly slide 10-15 back. That was quite an ice layer that was put down a week ago. This caused some problems for us all the way.

I am surprised to say that by the time we were at about 8000 feet we were having a really hard time taking any more steps up than we were sliding back. We made it to the top of Moon Rocks (9,200') and it seemed really silly to think that we wouldn't be able to make it up to Muir. The 3-5 inches of snow was adhering well enough to the ice layer that skiers were having no problem skinning up, but anyone walking without crampons like we were wasn't making very fast progress.

I followed the rocks to the right of Moon Rocks toward Anvil Rock, but that only led me to the top of a convexity that if I were to fall, the resulting trajectory would carry me straight into a jumble of large boulders. I glanced over at Glenn and he was making slow (2 step up, 1 slid back) progress straight up from Moon Rocks.

I managed to use a technique of sticking my poles into the ice, then stepping on the upper sides of them. This acted like having 1-point crampons. I did this until I got to the flat area above Anvil Rock at around 9600. Once there, the ice gave way to a surface with a little more traction.

Skiers had a great descent. 3-5 inches of powder. Stay off those edges! It was just ice underneath. But between 20-40 people had a nice ski down.

I relate this story to show that this time of year, please bring crampons, shoe chains, or instep crampons, at the very least, on your winter trips to Camp Muir. After having been to Camp Muir around 500 times in the last 20 years, I can still be caught with my pants down. Keep your pants up!

September 19th -

Last weekend brought the incredible finale to an amazing season on the Muir Snowfield. A record amount of snow lingering in the area covered the crevasses and icy patches on the snowfield for the entire season. Usually by late July or early August glacial ice begins to show itself near Moon Rocks, requiring climbers and day hikers to don crampons on the snowfield. The first snow of the winter blew in over the last weekend adding even more snow to the snowfield.

Though skiers and snowboarders have been eeking out turns, the general conditions for carving turns are bad. Patches of loose wind-packed snow checker the hard consolidated snow surface that's been rotting in the sun all summer.

Flowers and trails around Paradise are still in great shape. Snow did not accumulate below 8000 feet, thus trails are still snow free, and the flora has a nice sheen of dew. Come on up and enjoy the ephemeral Washington Autumn in Paradise!

September 10th

The Labor Day holiday and the "summer" season have come and gone. That said, the route up to Camp Muir is more pleasant than ever. The meadows are mostly melted out, making for excellent marmot watching and flower photos. As the previous post mentioned, please stay on the rock-lined trail to preserve the fragile meadows with their extremely short growing season.

The route from Pebble Creek up to Muir is in excellent condition, being 95% snow. Travel in the early to mid day is most pleasant right now with the warm temperatures, offering solid footing. The route is still wanded, and being traveled by the guide services, and lots of day hikers on the weekends, but as always be ready to do some route finding if any unexpected fall weather rolls in.

Camp Muir itself is in excellent shape, being melted out, and quite beach-like lately with the high temperatures. The skies have been a little smokey lately due to the wildfires burning around the Northwest, making for some interesting and colorful sunrises and sunsets. Come on up and say hello, and take in the beautiful views.

August 25th

The record snowpack is finally starting to yield the the heather and flowers of the Paradise meadows making for some great photos ops on your approach. This also increases the importance of staying on the trail. With all the snow patches on the trail, and the amount of melt every day the trail may not always look like the most direct line. If you take a second to look for the maintained trail before you step off the snow you will prevent a lot of resource damage. Un-stomped flowers make much better photos than those crushed by a size 11 mountaineering boot.

The route up from Pebble Creek is still 95% snow covered and very direct. Only the most die-hard skiers will find it worthy to pack your skis up the snowfield. Large sun cups on the upper snowfield make for a pretty bumpy ride. If you just can't wait to make some turns, try scouting out the Paradise Glacier. Camp Muir will be staffed by climbing rangers for several more weeks. Climber traffic has begun to drop off a little so if you think you want to avoid the crowds come up and pay us a visit.

August 23rd

A thank you is in order for all of you that have helped out at Camp Muir this season. We rangers and your fellow climbers greatly appreciate it when people step up and pack out other people's trash from the public shelter. Camp Muir gets thousands of visitors every season and unfortunately there is always the 10% of people who are not on board with the pack-it-in/pack-it-out ethic.

Some even go further. Here is a pic of Patrick from Ellensburg helping rangers move rocks back from the tent area to stabilize the chossy berm that is Camp Muir. When climbers remove rocks from the berm to anchor their tents it causes a considerable amount of erosion. Just look at our heli-pad. Here's a way to anchor your tent and clean up the mountain at the same time. While hiking up the snowfield collect the broken wands that used to mark the route but now are just litter. Break them up into 8 inch segments and girth hitch a bunch of them together and use them as a dead man anchor for your guy lines. When you leave dig up your; free, organic, fair trade, sustainable, light-weight, reusable, multipurpose tent anchors, pack them out and use them to start your camp fire on your next outing(below timberline in a proper fire pit, of course!).

August 9th

We are now setting records each day at Paradise for total snow on the ground for these days in August. The former record was in 1974 after one of the 1000+" years we had back then. There's never been this much snow at Paradise in August in recorded history (since 1916).

I just skied all the way up to Camp Muir from Paradise. I only had to take my skis off 3 times between Pan Point and Pebble Creek. Otherwise you can ski all the way back down to Paradise from Muir.
Here's the beta. Ski the Paradise Glacier - or at least the western margin nearest to the Muir Snowfield. Yes. It is a glacier. There are crevasses, but for those who are prepared with the proper gear, the skiing is far superior.

Expect a some rather large and unpleasant suncups from Camp Muir to 9700 feet, but as soon as you're around the bottom of Muir Rocks, cut skier's left and head over towards Anvil Rock. The snow gets smoother near Anvil Rock and for the rest of the way down. Stay next to anvil and ski the steeper section. On your way over Anvil, veer right and hug the rocks on the west side of the glacier.

August 4th

August weather has finally started to melt some of the snow from the Paradise meadows. Please be cautious when transitioning from melted out patches of trail back to snow patches - the alpine meadows are extremely fragile at this point in the season. The snowfield has lots of snow still hanging around. Though ski conditions are becoming more technical and challenging, it's still possible to ski 90% of the way from Camp Muir back to Paradise.

No icy sections or crevasses have appeared on the snowfield. Crampons and ice axes may be nice to have once the snow firms up at night time or early in the morning, but other than those times a sturdy pair of hiking boots and trekking poles will work.

July 22

Camp Muir has been a busy and mostly sunny place over the past week. We have had many climbers, campers, skiers and day hikers out playing in the park. The weather looks like it is going to stay mostly nice (at least above the clouds) so come on up and visit.

The travel from Paradise to Camp Muir remains about 98% snow at the moment. There are a few spots in the upper Paradise meadows and around Panorama Point that are down to dirt but that is about it. Expect these sections of bare trail to become more prevalent as the snow continues to melt, and help protect the meadows by following the wanded trails and paying extra close attention to where you are stepping in the snow to dirt transition areas. Above Pebble Creek the travel is 100% snow, and the route is currently very well traveled and wanded. Snowshoes are not needed, due to well consolidated snow but on really hot days leaving early will make things easier.

If you are staying at Muir please remember a few important things to do while you are there. One of these is to pick up a plastic food storage container from the rangers to use during your stay. These containers help protect your food from creatures such as foxes, ravens, and mice. They are also a convenient and dry place to keep food during your stay so you have more space in your tent. Secondly please help us keep Muir clean by packing everything you brought up back down the mountain with you. In the Public Shelter trash and abandoned gear is becoming increasingly common. There is no trash service at Muir and rangers have to pack down their own trash, and don't like to add yours to their load. Trash includes unopened food, unused fuel, jugs of water, wands as well as all the normal stuff. This is your shelter please keep it clean for others!

Skiing on the snowfield is becoming increasingly bumpy with sun-cups, but there are still large areas of good snow. If you are still into skiing try checking out some of the lesser traveled areas...some of them are holding the goods still. Explore and be creative!

Remember sunscreen, sunglasses and lots of water, even if you leave Paradise in the clouds.

July 14

That said, the Muir snowfield is still mostly snow, and if you go slowly and cautiously, it is almost impossible to get lost. The boot pack is deep and obvious, and the majority of the route is still wanded. Pay attention up at Pan Point to areas that have been roped off. These are potential danger zones, and ecologically sensitive areas. Stay on the path, and have FUN!

July 7

So it's early July and yesterday I skied from camp Muir to Paradise without removing my skis once. That's pretty unprecedented for this time of year, but at the same time summer is now upon us with full days of sunshine and very warm temps, so conditions will change rapidly in the near future. So if skiing in July is your thing get out now.

For all you people out there who are foot travelers or who are just plain over wearing your ski boots, the traveling on the snowfield is best done early in the morning, or later in the evening. Although the snow is starting to consolidate and there is a very well entrenched boot pack, the radiation and warm temperatures make mid-day travel kind of sloppy.

As the winter's snow melts, please be sure to stay on the trails and avoid traveling over the very fragile meadows above Paradise. The appropriate trails will be marked with wands and bamboo as much as possible, but please be self aware of where your feet are going.

And last but certainly not least congratulations to Patrick and Ami (please forgive the misspelling) who tied the knot on our heli-pad on July 4th! The groom even carried up his own watermelon for the celebration, which was graciously shared with rangers and other climbers. Thanks again you guys!

June 16

The Snowfield/Muir Corridor has been seeing lots of traffic despite variability in weather conditions. The skiing is excellent. Keep in mind that continuing past Camp Muir requires a climbing pass and climbers and skiers should be prepared for crevassed glacial terrain. Please be prepared for inclement weather and navigation issues.

We have had some issues with a fox following climbers and hikers up the snowfield and picking up scraps left behind by careless visitors. Please do not encourage the fox and please be mindful of leave no trace ethics in the wilderness.

The snow is becoming more and more consolidated. Snow shoes are generally not needed unless you plan to climb after a large storm cycle. Keep an eye on the weather to help you determine current conditions.

June 9th

There have been some absolutely gorgeous days on the snowfield lately, and plenty of people coming out to play. The route from Paradise to Muir is still 100% snow covered. The route is also very well wanded, so navigation should be fairly easy, but having a map and compass or GPS is still always recommended.

If you are staying overnight at Muir please remember to clean up your area of all food and store it safely in your tent. Our alpine fox is back and had been raiding unattended food, as well as tearing into people's packs to steal a tasty morsel or two. So please help us keep the wildlife wild by not feeding the fox...even accidentally...and letting him forage for more natural food such as mice, which we could use a few less of around camp.

May 26th

The Muir snowfield is a snowy playground at the moment. A cold winter with ample snowfall (still) has provided excellent conditions for skiing, hiking, and enjoying the winter beauty of Mount Rainier. This past week the snowfield and Muir have enjoyed many sunny days, even though there are clouds obscuring the view into the lowlands.

The winter route from Paradise to Muir is very well wanded at the moment, but visitors should not rely on wands and other footprints 100%. Stop by the Jackson Visiotr Center or Climbing Information Center to get the latest info on snowfield conditions and to pick up a route guide containing compass bearings and GPS points.

Remember your sunscreen and sunglasses even if it is cloudy and raining when you leave Paradise...you could be in the sun before you know it. Enjoy!

April 24th

With good weather the last two days, and lots of traffic, a great skin-track and a braided boot-track was established all the way to Camp Muir. The snow up high (near Camp Muir) was mostly wind packed powder, while down low (around the Paradise Area) was mashed potatoes in the sun and ice in the shade. The route to Camp Muir has some bamboo wands marking the way, but they are not reliable, or evenly spaced. Please remember to bring your own system to navigate to and from Camp Muir. With more storm cycles passing through soon, there should be some fresh powder by next weekend!

April 13th - There's above average snow pack out there this year and it shows. Skis and snowshoes are necessary for anybody wanting to leave the Paradise Parking Lot. Please check the weather forecast and avalanche danger before heading out. For 2010's conditions check this link.

Edmonds Headwall 2010

2010-08-11T09:03:00.001-07:00

Edmond Headwall Visitor trip report
Dave Welles
7/30/10-8/1/10

With a perfect weekend forecast Parker Montgomery, Jeff Tinnea and I of the set off to climb the Edmunds Headwall route on Thursday eve 7/29/10. We car camped near the Carbon River ranger station and got up on Friday to get our climbing permits. We were on the trail and moving by 10:15 a.m. and heading up the trail to spray park @ apx 5800 ft. , then onto Ptarmigan ridge past Observation Rock and then followed the ridge up to approximately 8400ft where we descended 800ft of a scree field down to the north Mowich glacier.

We traveled on the North Mowich through some crevasses and then the Edmunds and climbed steadily up to our high camp on a prominent saddle looking directly to the headwall @ 8600 ft.

We arrived at camp at 8:45 PM after approximately 10 hours of hiking. Parker and I pitched a tent and bivy on a good level snow patch on a saddle, while Jeff melted water and cooked a good ramen and tuna dinner for us.

We were bedded down by 9:30 with a wakeup time of 4am. We thought we would get a later start since the headwall is shaded all morning. Around 1am Jeff woke me up – (Jeff and I shared the tent and Parker had the bivy) and said that it had completely clouded over and a storm was coming in fast – I couldn’t believe it as had seen a clear sky with stars when we went to bed – just goes to show you that you should always be prepared for anything despite a good forecast.

The weather kept getting nastier and nastier and with much lightning – we consider here we might hide if it got worse – but decided there was nowhere we could go - just stay on our sleeping pads and hope if anything hit close that we would stay insulated – I the meantime it rained cats and dogs. We went back to sleep and when I woke up at 4 there were stars out again – later Jeff said the storm had ended about 2am.
We awoke at 4am, had a good breakfast, roped up and at 5:15 headed up towards the bergschrund at the base of the headwall just as we saw first light. We stayed to the west of a large rock formation for about 1400ft on the glacier with no open crevasses and good cramponing to the base of the bergschrund.

We debated the best approach and eventually at Jeff’s suggestion we went to the east side of the bergschrund. I led up through it being belayed from below and worked my way through mixed sift snow and ice through the crack as soon as I was up I belayed Jeff then Parker up.

We slowly worked our way up the headwall taking turns kicking steps – the slope was around 55 degrees.

We decided also to avoid skirting the Mowich face bergschrund to the right and instead went up the chute between the rocks just to the right of the face. We eventually topped out where sunset ridge meets the upper Edmunds headwall (it took us several hours to reach this point as going was slower than we anticipated – none of checked the time at this point) where we took a quick breather and climbed the rocks to our left leading right on top the upper Mowich face.
For about 100 feet we were able to traverse in snow well over the bergschrund along the ridge - we had originally projected the headwall to take us 5 hours but it took much longer.
Now we had to do a climbing traverse to the east over the Mowich face. We immediately encountered ice under a few inches of snow. We each had two glacier axes (ice tools would have been nice) and Jeff at least had good front point mixed ice crampons. We put in a screw and we made my way past the last section of rocks towards a large open face. We regretted not buying a 5th screw at this point as it would have made for less pitches. We had 30 meters of rope and it took us four pitches slow up the slope. We later estimated it much have been around 5PM when we started this section and it took a couple hours to complete. For every screw placed we had to dig down through about 4-6 inches of snow to get to good to marginal ice. As the temp dropped we also had a lot of trouble keeping the screws clear of frozen ice inside and it was quite difficult to get them started.

Eventually we topped out at the bottom of Liberty Cap as the sun set towards the north lower side of the cap.
The sun was setting and we found a good spot in some meter length rime and quickly dug and stomped out a camp. We estimated that it got down to 10 degrees or lower and all boots, gears harnesses were frozen solid the next day and covered with thick frost except for water we had left in our packs.
We all woke up several times in the night to check conditions as we had decided to go as soon as we could see – (when we bedded down it was clear but soon was white out) We wanted to wait to see the route so we couldn’t get off course in the white out – eventually getting breaks enough to see between 7:30 and 8 am – at which time we had packed up (miserable with the frost) and left. We slowly made out way over the cap - and at the flats by 10:30 am. and the only thing left was the summit cone. We traversed out way across the flats of the cap and then up through the scree of the cone and arrived on top at about 1:15. SUMMIT!

There we lingered until 2:30 and we started our descent down the Emmons. The Emmons was in good shape and still firm for midafternoon-and not too much balling up until we got about the flats where Jeff who was now leading broke through a snow bridge entirely – after some deliberation we jumped it as we could not end run the crevasse. We arrive at camp Sherman at 5:30 and left at 6 or so after giving the next parties a heads up about the blown out snow bridge. We filled up our water bottles at a good spring right near the saddle then the big glissade down the Interglacier – we encountered no open crevasses on the rout down the Inter. We went down the main trail to white river campground and arrived at the car at 9PM. The new trail section is awesome!!! – thanks for getting it open!!!
4 screws and one picket – route is in great condition, though I’m not sure how much longer - good snow ice cover and few open crevasses on north Mowich/Edmunds – headwall and face in good shape. - Dave Welles 8/5/10

Pictures

Tahoma Glacier 2010

2010-08-11T07:22:00.000-07:00

August 5th

Rangers recently completed an ascent of the Tahoma Glacier beginning at Kautz Creek below Longmire. A short afternoon hike brought them to the Indian Henrys Patrol Cabin for the night. The next morning they headed towards South Tahoma Glacier by handrailing north of Pyramid Peak gaining the glacier at 8000ft. Roping up to negotiate a jumbled mass of seracs and pressure bulges, it appeared that there was really only one way through to gain the Tahoma cleaver.

From the Cleaver the rangers traversed onto the Tahoma glacier. Ascending to 10000 ft the rangers set camp in the middle right side of the glacier digging a small bivy platform safe from serac fall and avalanche hazard. The following morning they roped up and traversed sketchy serac jumbles and crossed fresh serac debris for several hundred meters to the north before picking their way up the Tahoma main. It seemed that there were fairly regular end runs around large cracks every several hundred meters including some spectacular technical bridge crossings on the upper headwall. Around 12,500 ft the route was forced north again towards the top of the Sickle and involved steep traversing under large seracs and icefall. From the top of the Sickle it was a laborious grind through sastrugi and shoulder high penitente's to the west summit and then onto the east summit crater where they then descended to Camp Muir via the DC.

Overall the experience was radically different from other routes on the mountain primarily for its remote wilderness approach and difficult technical routefinding. The only tracks evident on the upper glaciers were those of mountain goats and though there have been climbers registered for the Tahoma this season there was no evidence of prior ascents. Those climbers looking for real routefinding challenges and a true wilderness experience need not look any further. The Tahoma Glacier is a perfect tune-up for routes like the West Ridge of Mooses Tooth or the West Rib of Denali with the NE fork start. While the steepness never exceeded 50 degrees, good route selection and solid glacier travel skills are key to this spectacular west-side glacier.

Climbing on the upper headwall above 12,000 ft. The route was forced north (climbers left) up high underneath some spectacular icefall and intersected the Sickle. The Sickle route (as approached by the guidebook beta, Puyallup Cleaver) was a definite no-go.

Mowich Face 2010

2010-07-29T10:21:00.000-07:00

Mowich Face July 24, 2010

Rangers had a stellar climb of the Central Mowich last week, and dspite some high winds were able to easily summit the route.

From Mowich Lake the approach should be pretty fast right now. Ascend through Spray Park up lower Ptarmigan Ridge before dropping down onto the North Mowich Glacier and traversing to some excellent bivy spots in the 9200' area below the face. From here the climbing starts.

The route now is pretty self explanatory for the first bit. Climb the obvious central line through ever steepening terrain, taking a moment every now and then to marvel at the awesome wilderness surrounding you! When you reach the 12500' area it's time to make a decision. Either climb right around the rock on the obvious snow ramp, possibly encountering some ice...or climb right and work your way through the system of rock bands and snow ramps until terrain starts to mellow below Liberty Cap. Both ways go. Descend the Tahoma or Emmons.

Ptarmigan Ridge 2010

2010-07-28T08:01:00.001-07:00

Ptarmigan Ridge 2010- August 4th

There is still excellent climbing on the route which now includes a good deal of ice. It looks as if Ptarmigan Ridge has at least a couple of more weeks of stellar climbing before the ice gives way to bare rock.

Our approach through Spary Park and the Flett Glaciers included an incredible wildflower show and an insolent goat. Access down to the North Mowich Glacier to begin the climb at 9,800 feet requires some good routefinding skills to avoid letting loose an avalanche of choss as the ridge at this point is a house of cards of boulders and scree. Once on the Glacier, however, stunning bivy sites are available.

The bergschrund remains easily passable at its far end. The next 2200+ vertical feet above the schrund include some of the best and most varied technical climbing on Mount Rainier. A mix of
ice, snow and rock greeted us and never failed to please. The line is always enjoyable and the views are stunning. If solitude and technical terrain is what you are looking for, try Ptarmigan.

Having completed the exit gully (see options below in the July 28th report), however, the fun gives way a slog to the summit on lower angle glacier. The last few hundred vertical feet is a treat if you dig winding through a never-ending field of penitentes.
Penitentes and loose choss aside, Ptarmigan Ridge is easily among the top climbs on Mount Rainier and is still go.

July 22nd 2010

Rangers climbed the route July 22th during a major wind event, experiencing gusts in the 70's and steady winds in the 50's. Despite Ptarmigan Ridge's blunt aspect with regards to the wind the route was in pretty good shape and climbers can expect another week or two of decent conditions before it becomes more trouble than its worth.

There are two or three decent bivy spots at 10,300 and the climbing through the lower 'schrund to gain the snow apron was holding together. Climbers should expect this to become more difficult as the days pass. It's a straight shot up and left for about 1000 ft. before either going left or right at the rock headwall. Rockfall should be considered a definite hazard here. Rangers climbed right at the headwall and found cool blue ice (50 degrees) before cresting the ridge and gaining the rock exit gully up and left.

There are two obvious exits; one leads directly through a steep verglassed step with a fixed pin up high. It looks about 5.8 but with icy windy conditions rangers climbed right of it up a lower angle slab/crack system for about 30 ft of what felt like 5.7. This also had a fixed pin at the crux and competent climbers should not feel the need for rock gear or bother removing their crampons.

Above the exit gully one regains the Ptarmigan Ridge and rangers found slow laborious isothermic sastrugi to Liberty Cap. That said the climb was excellent despite wind conditions that had other weaker climbers crawling on their hands and knees. Climbing on the northwest corner of the mountain will guarantee an excellent isolated wilderness experience with a great tour of a beautiful part of the Park. Enjoy!

Little Tahoma 2010

2010-07-10T07:35:00.001-07:00

Little Tahoma ~ 7/9/2010

If you're looking for some solitude and unparalleled views of Rainier, look no further than Little T!

Starting from the Summerland Trailhead near the White River Entrance, hike 3+ miles before switching to skis and then proceed either to camp at Summerland (6000ft.), or Meany Crest

(7600ft.). There are ample dry bivy/tent sites at Meany Crest while Summerland remains under several feet of snow. From Meany Crest, continue to ski or boot to the notch between the Fryingpan Glacier and the Whitman Glacier at 9000 ft. Just after the notch there is some running water where you can fill water bottles for either the rest of the trip up or back down. Continue traversing past the notch until the snow slope steepens and turns upward toward the summit. This portion can be either booted or skinned quite managably. Once at the first rock step at about 10500 ft., continue up on more snow until reaching 3^rd class rock to the summit. With the current temperatures and low snow line (5000ft.) skis are still highly recommended for this route. Camping at Meany Crest is highly recommended over Summerland but be sure to check in at the White River Ranger Stations for the most recent conditions.

Ingraham Direct 2010

2010-06-09T09:45:00.000-07:00

Ingraham Direct - July 22nd

No climbing teams have been passing through the Ingraham Direct route for the past week. The Disappointment Cleaver route has now become the standard route from Camp Muir to the summit. See the Disappointment Cleaver route beta here.

July 6th

With all of the warm weather over the last couple of days, and predicted freezing levels above 14,000 feet for the week to come, don't expect the Ingraham Direct to stay "in" past this week. Guide services have already been doing maintenance on the Disappointment Cleaver route, getting it prepped for future climbers.

The crux of the Ingraham Direct is the large crevasse opening at 11,600. A ladder is currently spanning the gap, but is losing purchase on both sides as the crevasse continues to widen.

Also, higher on the Ingraham Glacier, around 12,000, there has been recent serac/ice fall activity. Try not to take breaks underneath these ice blocks.

To the right is a photo of the ladder that spans the crevasse.

June 24th

The route is incredibly straight forward and fast right now. Teams have been going up to the summit from Camp Muir in faster time than they've gotten to Camp Muir from Paradise.

With all of the warm weather the snow on the ID has been softening up earlier in the day. Try to plan climbs accordingly - so your team is down before they're post-holing through slush and weak crevasse bridges. Look to the freezing level and cloud cover as indicators of how slushy the route will become.

June 15th

The ID is back in business!! Both guided groups and independent parties enjoyed excellent cramponing and sunshine on the upper mountain this weekend taking the route all the way to the summit. While conditions above 13,000 feet still had cold winter-like conditions climbers found no trouble making their way to the TOP of the Mountain.

(American Avalanche Institute owner Sarah Carpenter discusses conditions with IMG guides at Camp Muir)

While there was much concern over avalanche conditions during the past week extreme solar radiation penetrated the snowpack resulting in stabilizing conditions. This weather pattern relegated avalanche concern to just one of many objective hazards found in virtually all types of mountaineering. Concerns include but are not limited to serac hazard, climber slip and fall, crevasse hazards, weather, altitude, poor planning and preparation, rockfall, and yes, avalanche... Please understand that objective hazards will ALWAYS exist; it is up to the individual party to mitigate or minimize those hazards. That said, the route has been kicked in, wanded and climbed regularly over the past few days. Come on up and CRUSH IT!!!

June 13th

Ok, folks. Here's the deal! Camp Muir has been getting some sun for the last couple of days. Temperatures were creeping up into the 40s today. There was very little wind until midday. Philippe and I went up onto the flats at around 10:00 a.m. and up onto the first hill above the flats at around 11,500 feet.

There hasn't been a whole lot of new precipitation on the upper mountain in the last two days. Today the first independent groups headed up above the top of the Disappointment Cleaver. A few folks braved the winds near the top and summited.

Philippe and I dug a pit and did a pretty complete profile. There is that pesky layer of graupel down about 35 cm, but we couldn't get anything to move with a compression test or an extended column test. We did do a fully isolated rutschblock, and we did get it to fail on the first hop (rb4), but the failure was very poor, Q3, broken, and only the partial block. This was a 35 degree slope.

Granted, there's a great amount of spatial variability on the glacier... The ski penetration, even during the heat of midday, was only an inch or so. The boot penetration was about 15 cm. The top 10-15 cm was sun-affected and starting to get a little wet. Crampons were balling up. The guide service (RMI) went by us when we were digging our pit. Two guides were doing a reconnaisance to establish a new route up the Ingraham.

Here's a pit profile.

There's been a lot of these snowpits dug up high lately. In all my time at Mt. Rainier, I can't think of when I've known of so many people really worried about the avalanche conditions in June to this extent. This alarm is well warranted, indeed, it may be time to start making these pits a little more part of the operation while we're climbing. However, it's difficult to put these data into perspective because not many of us have made a habit digging full snowpits above 11,000 feet this time of year. It's hard to say what we've been climbing on all these years anyway.

Stick with what we know and fundamentals we've learned in training. It's been a cold and wet spring. The upper mountain has received a lot of snow in May and early June. We need to be wary of avalanche conditions. However, after a few days of warm, clear weather, it's time to start thinking about getting up the hill.

If you take a look at the historical data and compare it to the current snowpack at Paradise, you'll quickly see that we're almost 140% of normal. This is a huge snowpack for this time of year. We really made up for the drought this winter. As we've placed the glacier stakes this spring for the mass/balance studies, we've observed that there is at least a meter more snow than usual for this time of year (7.5 meters compared to 6.0 meters in the standard places).

This means that the less common / non-standard routes that so many of us love to climb may stay in shape longer. Gib Ledges look great, which is crazy for this time of year! The Ingraham is largely unbroken; this is about the time of year when we go over to the DC, but we'll be on the ID for a while yet. The Kautz looks sweet. Nisqually Ice Cliff is doable still. The Emmons-Winthrop looks awesome! The Finger looks nice.

The weather over the next 48 hours looks good. The snow got baked today up to about 12,000 feet. This is good. Over the next 48 hours, colder air is moving in, and there will be a marine layer in the sound.

So be cautious, but be out there! Take a shot, but take it all in and consider all the variables.

Ingraham Direct - June 9

After a major avalanche on Saturday, June 5th, there's been significant wind loading again on the Ingraham Direct. Snow pits dug at the base of the headwall on the route (approx. 11,500') are finding a couple of noteworthy layers. See the NWAC website for special warnings and pit profiles at Mount Rainier.

See the photo to the right of the Ingraham Glacier taken from Ingraham Flats on June 8th - after the major avalanche.

Also, please check in with the rangers at the Paradise Climbing Information Center and Camp Muir when you arrive for your climb.

Wilson Headwall 2010

2010-05-11T13:13:00.000-07:00

Wilson Headwall 2010 - May 11th

Like all the other routes at the moment, the Wilson Headwall appears to be in excellent condition. The headwall appears to have routes that go on both the left and right sides at the moment, with both routes looking filled in and direct.

Check out the Kautz posting for approach details.

Fuhrer Finger 2010

2010-05-11T12:51:00.000-07:00

Fuhrer Finger 2010-July16th

The Fuhrer Finger is still a go! Rangers climbed and skied the finger late last week and found excellent climbing conditions. The skiing, however, is close to being done. The skiing down from 14k, to about 11k was fantastic, but the lower elevation skiing brought grabby, mushy slush! The high freezing levels the past week or so have taken a toll on the snow, and caused in increase in rock fall through the finger.

The approach to the finger is still in great shape. The lower Nisqually Glacier is slowly starting to open up, and roping before crossing would be recommended. Once across the Nisqually, there is a solid boot track leading to the bivy sites at 9,200 feet, near the "Castle". All of these sites are melted out and in great shape. There are several great, flat sheltered spots, with easy access to snow for melting water. Once you take off from camp, be cautious on the Wilson, as there is a system of fairly large crevasses open just northeast of the 9,200 foot bivy spots.

The entrance to the finger itself is still very straight forward, and all snow. Once in the finger be sure to wear your brain bucket, and don't take too many breaks. As we climbed, we noticed very little rockfall with the prevailing firm, cold conditions, but upon our return in the late morning we noted several very large rocks that had fallen while we were on the upper mountain, and the snow had softened quickly to the point of being mid-shin deep while on skis. The upper exit from the finger still presents the climber with two choices: climber's left, along the Wapowety Cleaver, or climber's right out onto the main Nisqually Glacier. Both appear to be a "go." We chose right, and found smooth travel, but noted that several of the snow bridges had recently collapsed, or would do so soon. Good glacier navigation skills are necessary, especially on your return. There is one large crevasse around 12,800, which may require protection to cross in the near future. From here, continue straight up and join the folks coming up from the Kautz route for the slog to the crater rim. All in all, we found pleasant conditions, but make sure to move early, and travel safe! Get on up here and get some of the corn harvest, and enjoy the sunny weather that has been persisting on the upper mountain the past week or so!

Fuhrer Finger 2010 - June 26th

Two locals skied the finger today and said it was in great shape.

Fuhrer Finger 2010 - May 11th

The Fuhrer Finger and Thumb look to be in great shape at the moment. Everything is filled in with a foot or so of new snow falling in the last 24 hours. Conditions are prime for some ski descents!

Check out the Kautz posting for information regarding the approach. Also check out that crown below the finger! Be conscience of what and who are above and below you.

Wooo hoo! Skiing!

Emmons-Winthrop Glacier 2010

2010-04-20T14:46:00.000-07:00

October 6th

Conditions on the Emmons should be great right now. The upper mountain surface conditions are predominately consolidated new snow and the route should be in good shape for fall climbing.

There are no rangers staffing Schurman at this time and the toilet has been "winterized". This means if you go up there and use it, please leave it like you found it...very secure with ratchet strap fully around the structure. Remember to take Blue Bags with you, they are available at the White River Ranger Station.

The road to White River Campground should be open until October 31st or until snow prohibits keeping it open. Stay tuned to the park website for details.

Self registration is in effect all winter. Please register at the White River Ranger Station if you climb. The White River WIC will be open until mid October from 7:30 to 4:30 if you would like to register with a ranger.

September 6th

A few strong teams attempted and summited via the Emmons this weekend. Despite broken weather and some high winds the route offered good cramponing on styrofoam neve with no exposed ice. Route finding becomes difficult above the corridor with some crevasse bridges out. When in doubt trend towards the Saddle to the east of Liberty Cap. There are no wands on the route and tracks are hard to discern especially with the few inches of new snow that seems to appear every few days now.

Still, the climbing is excellent, temps are cool on the approach and things are mellow at Camp Schurman. Come up for the day or stay and climb. The Emmons is still a great climb with a fracition of the traffic of the DC.

August 19th

Climbers are still summiting via the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier route. There are two larger crevasse crossings, one about mid-way and the other at the top, on the corridor. Most parties are traversing at a mellow slope angle from the top of the corridor to the saddle between Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest, and then heading for the summit.

A few injuries have occurred with climbers trying to jump across crevasses and landing on uneven terrain. Please take caution whenever a "jump" seems necessary. Try to down climb or "scoot" whenever possible.

July 28, 2010

Not much to report in the last ten days except that it is still seeing plenty of traffic and offers a sweet direct line straight to the top.

Please stop by the ranger hut and have one of the climbing rangers point out the direct line to the summit. With so much traffic from carry-overs on the north-side routes some climbers are getting distracted and finding themselves on the saddle between Liberty Cap and the summit and adding an extra hour hike to their climb.

Please understand that despite favorable conditions and a well-worn path up the route that the potential for severe crevasse falls and weak snowbridges exists ALL THE TIME. Please use appropriate glacier travel protocols.

July 18

Over the weekend the Emmons route saw many climbers successfully summiting Mount Rainier, and fully enjoying some of the best conditions we have seen in mid-July in a number of years.

As with the rest of the mountain the Emmons route is in spectacular shape. The approach to Camp Schurman up the Inter Glacier consists of a very well worn and very direct line straight up the glacier before traversing toward Camp Curtis and continuing over onto the Emmons and into Schurman or up to Emmons Flats. Early travel is recommended during these warm days to avoid postholing in the deep sloppy snow. Even before noon the glacier is getting warm enough to make travel slow.

As of now there are no open crevasses on the Inter Glacier. The Emmons, however, is starting to have some larger crevasses open up on the approach to camp, and roped travel is recommended at all times. The Inter Glacier is still very skiable to just above the glacier basin camp, and many people were out enjoying the July corn.

The route above Schurman is still as direct as it can be. Climbers have been gaining the corridor by one of three large ramps above Emmons Flats, and from there going basically straight up the rest of the route. There are a few crevasses to navigate around between 12,500' and 13,000', and then it is smooth climbing to the summit, with most climbers still choosing to go directly over the bergschrunds as opposed to traversing to Liberty Saddle. The 'schrund crossings are all very solid right now and should stay that way for the near future. Once above the 'schrund continue on to Columbia Crest, take a photo, high five and return the same way, or descend via Liberty Saddle for a little variation.

Come on out and stop by the ranger hut for all the latest info!

July 10, 2010

Summer has finally arrived on the upper mountain! Freezing levels for the past week have been between 11,000 to 14,000 feet during the night providing for exceptionally comfortable climbing conditions and summit cat-naps.

The Emmons route remains in stellar condition with only minor crevasse negotiation near the top of the route. From the top of the Corridor the route trends slightly right until crossing the first bergschrund directly and skirting the second a little farther right. Snow conditions have been perfect for cramponing in the early morning and softening significantly by the afternoon.

Ski conditions from the summit have been quite variable at best above 12,500ft. but creamy below. The skiing on the corridor has been particularly good and skiers from around the country have been showing up in droves as of late.

Also, be advised that the Glacier Basin trail has melted out all the way to the Glacier Basin campsites and the new re-route section of trail is due to open any time. This new section of trail will likely still be under some sort of fine tuning so please be respectful to the trail crew when passing and don't just "play through" without letting them know you are there.

June 27, 2010

Excellent skiing and climbing conditions!! The Emmons is super-direct and can be skinned virtually the entire way to the summit. Snow has melted out from the White River Campground but ski mountaineers shouldn't be discouraged. Carry your skis until the snow coverage is adequate and come up for some great touring out of Schurman or punch it to the TOP for a summit/ski descent. Regardless, flotation is encouraged once past Glacier Basin. For a great wilderness experience take as many days as you can up here to facilitate a comfortable and relaxed acclimatization and enjoy the excellent scenery surrounding the Emmons-Winthrop.

Remember, the route is typically not guided or wanded, leaving it up to you to route-find and decide which way to go. For extra fun think about climbing and skiing multiple routes from Schurman. Crisscrossing the mountain on skis will reduce your carbon footprint, so you could even park at Longmire, take the bus to Paradise and carry over the top, cruise down the Tahoma, and use your best mountain smile to get back to your car. - options abound! Enjoy the late spring corn harvest

June, 18 2010

Super clean line up the Emmons/Winthrop. Lots of groups made it to the summit last weekend.

Looking down from the prow last weekend and the route up to Emmons flats.

Looking up the Inter-Glacier

DG

June 11, 2010 ~ Straight Shot

The Emmons route (as seen in this most recent photo) remains to be in stellar condition although few parties have had good enough weather windows to summit thus far this season. The route basically follows the fall line of "the corridor" all the way to the top where a short dog-leg right will get climbers around a short ice step, then straight again to the summit. It is not every year that the June version of the Emmons route is in such incredible shape with only moderately objective hazards from above.

On the topic of snow stability... it seems as if we are finally going to be getting our first shot of summer this weekend after much anticipation. With the warmer trending weather and freezing levels rising, it will be imperative for climbing parties to get early starts from Camp Schurman as the potential for avalanche activity will be likely to increase drastically in the afternoon sun.

Perhaps a more real, yet underestimated concern, is on the approach via the Inter Glacier...There has been daily avalanche activity coming off the steep slopes of Mt. Ruth and the other steeper, rock lined areas adjacent to the Inter Glacier approach. Most climbing parties traveling to Camp Schurman have been wise enough to give these areas and run-out zones a wide birth sticking to the very center of the Inter Glacier where there has been no observed avalanche activity making for much safer travel. The skiing conditions on the Inter Glacier have been quite phenomenal as of late, and skis can currently be kept on approximately a mile below Glacier Basin during the descent making for a quick trip out. If planning to camp at the Glacier Basin campground on the approach, there has been one pit toilet dug out that is ready for use, although all tent camping remains on snow.

See you on the mountain!

June 9 2010

After a week of storms intermixed with beautiful sunny days, the mountain is snow covered and ready to be climbed. The Emmons Glacier with its relatively low objective dangers has been a great route to the summit for many parties recently, even throughout the stormy weather we have been receiving. Teams have been summiting via the Emmons on a regular basis and it seems the most successful parties have planned on spending two or three days at Schurman waiting for the best opportunity to hit a weather window and go for the top. The extended trip also offers advantages of just being able to soak up the scenery and enjoy your surroundings. It's way better up here than at your office.

Currently the route itself is as straightforward as it gets. There is snow everywhere and very few open crevasses to navigate through. The route ascends from Schurman to the corridor and then basically straight up with variations going either left or right around the seracs above 12,000'. Parties have been forgoing the long traverse to Liberty Saddle and climbing directly to the top crossing the bergschrund on either of the two large snow ramps. Early travel helps to avoid the postholing that will eventually happen when all that new snow gets direct sun exposure or when the temps warm up.

The approach to Schurman is in great shape going straight up the Inter Glacier, over Camp Curtis and up the Emmons. This is another trip that is best done early in the day to avoid the warm sloppy afternoon snow conditions. Be wary of the steep slopes on Mount Ruth and Ruthless ridge that like to send wet point release avalanches down into the basin on warm days after new snow. That being said the skiing conditions on the Inter Glacier have been exceptional lately. Come check it all out.

June 2

This is a picture looking up the Emmons from mid-way up the "Corridor". The route is in great condition with no open crevasse crossings yet. There is great skiing at this time.

The Inter Glacier is also looking great with no open crevasses. Point-release slides are evident on the cliffsides as well as some large slides off Mt. Ruth.

There is still lots of snow on the trail up to Glacier Basin, but also lots of dirt patches are appearing so don't put your skis on until you get up about 2 miles.

Park in the climber/day-use parking lot at White River Campground.

Registration is at the White River Ranger Station.

Sun - Thur 0730 - 1630

Fri 0700 - 1900

Sat 0730 - 1630

Emmons-Winthrop Glacier 2010 - May 28

The road is open to White River campground, please park in day use parking. The trail up to glacier basin is mostly snow free. New snow this week, so bring your skis if you have some. The route is in good condition. Expect deep snow drifts on the upper mountain and Inter-Glacier.

DG

Emmons-Winthrop Glacier 2010 - May 25

Here's a trip report from last weekend:

Trip report Emmons-Winthrop 5/22 - 5/24:
I picked up my buddy Joe from N. Carolina at SeaTac Friday night and we headed to White River Saturday morning. Contrary to the information given to me by the park service on Friday, the gate was closed, but Dave Gottlieb was there in a truck and let us in and got us checked in for the climb.
The route from the campground to Glacier Basin was in pretty rough shape and took a long time in our rando boots. Patchy snow, sketchy bridge coverage, lots of post holing while carrying our skis. We saw 3 other skiers and one boarder coming back from day trips to the Interglacier. All reported good skiing, but said the vis had gotten really bad. When we came out of the woods at Glacier Basin we could see maybe 50 yards and it got progressively worse. We decided to camp in Glacier Basin rather than heading to Schurman that night.
Sunday was more of the same. We headed up the Interglacier and got a few degrees off line in the fog and ended up on climber’s far right at the top of the Interglacier. I had only been up to Schurman once before and was having trouble visualizing where we were in the fog. It finally cleared a bit and I could see where we were well enough to head to Schurman. We descended and then started climbing back up to Schurman and then the sun broke through and the skies cleared completely.
It got very cold when the sun went down but no wind to speak of. We got up a little after 2 a.m. (too late in hindsight) and ran into some stove issues. It took a couple hours to get the stove fixed, melt enough snow for water and gear up, but it was a beautiful day for climbing. Joe had a flight to catch that night so we set a noon turn around time. We started skinning up the Corridor and made pretty good time for the first 1,500 ft or so. Then we started hitting patches of ice and wind blown hard pack that was pretty slippery on skins. Joe took a little slide as we were turning (we were roped) so we decided to switch to crampons. The conditions were pretty variable and we ended up going from ice to mid thigh post holing back to ice. At around 12,000 we started running into small crevasses that were very hard to spot with all the windblown snow ridges around and we slowed down considerably. After punching through a few times, we then tried switching back to our skis to speed up our progress through these small crevasses a bit but the angle and the surface conditions slowed us more. We got to about 12, 500 and realized we were never going to make the summit before our turn around time, so we decided to enjoy the skiing, have lunch and head down at a leisurely pace. So, we did not summit, but I think if we had had another night to stay at Schurman we would have made it up no problem. From what we could see above us, the route is fine – it just takes a lot of time due to snow depth etc. (at least for us).
The ski down to Schurman was good with the last 800 ft or so being excellent. We packed up and headed to the Interglacier and the skiing there was outstanding. There was evidence of some small slough off slides on skier’s right but nothing major. All in all the snow pack seemed pretty stable for our whole route.

May 5

Hwy 410 (Chinook Pass) is now open so you can get as far as the turn off to the White River entrance. Leave your car on the north side of the road behind the monument. The road up to White River Campground is snow free (5 miles). We are planning to open the road by May 21st, but check here for updates as we may get it open a few days early. Twenty- four hour self-registration is still in affect at the White River Ranger Station a half mile past the closed gate.

DG

Emmons-Winthrop Glacier 2010 - April 20th

No reports yet, but the route should be in great shape. Check out the road access and registration info below.

White River Approach:

Currently the road is closed at the park boundary on 410. You can park in the snowplay parking lot and start your climb there; turn left on Crystal Blvd and the parking lot is just to your right. (Do NOT park in front of the gate on 410 itself - you may be towed). Self-registration is available 24 hours a day at the White River Ranger Station.

Highway 410/123 may be open as early as April 30, check with the Washington state DOT web site for more up-to-date info.

DG

Gibraltar Ledges/Chute 2010

2010-04-11T10:30:00.000-07:00

Gibraltar Ledges/Chute 2010 - July 22nd

The ledges have melted out significantly since the 6th of July. Now, instead of walking all on snow, there are talus patches climbers must traverse to gain the upper section of Gibraltar Chute. The rocky/gritty surface of the snow on the ledges and in the chute are a sign of increased rockfall hazard. Access to the ledges via the Cowlitz is still fairly direct and smooth, and the route above Gib Rock on the upper mountain is still in great shape - a nice direct path to the crater rim.

July 6th

Rangers climbed the ledges and found great conditions on both the ledges and chute. The upper elevation snow seems to be sticking around longer than most years.

A couple of crevasses are opening up on the approach to the ledges. When ascending the Cowlitz Glacier, watch out for these cracks. Above the ledges the route is still very straight forward, offering fast and direct summits.

The chute has multiple crevasses opening up at the bottom. It's prudent to rope up for this section of the route. Also, stay climbers right and move quickly to avoid ice/rock fall down the chute.

June 24th

With no parties reporting successful summits via the Gibraltar Ledges there has been no official update. There has been a boot track climbing up from Camp Muir to the ledges, on the Cowlitz, over the past couple of weeks though. The ledges still have snow and are definitely climbable, and appear to be "in good conditions" for at least a couple of more weeks.

Be sure to assess snow stability before entering terrain where any kind of slide could have catastrophic consequences.

April 10th

Reports have been positive with regard to Gib Ledges this year. There have been a handful of successful parties summiting within the last couple of weeks. With all of the new snow accumulation use caution when exiting the ledges into the chute. The top part of the chute can be unstable.

With the wintry conditions, this route is probably the most direct way to the summit. Advanced skiers have even skied the chute after climbing the ledges. Another option is to ski to the top of the chute, downclimb the ledges, and then ski the upper Cowlitz back to Camp Muir.

The same registering logistics apply to Gib Ledges/Chute as for the Disappointment Cleaver. Use the link to the right to check them out.

Liberty Ridge 2010

2010-04-08T17:54:00.000-07:00

Liberty Ridge 2010 July 28th

Reports from Lib Ridge indicate that the route is still climbable but that rockfall hazard has picked up significantly since rangers climbed the route two weeks ago. Furthermore, the large devestating slab avalanche has reduced the aesthetic quality of the route despite offering 1500 ft of front pointing on 50 degree terrain.

Independent teams reported that the safest climbing was to be found directly on the ridge whereas climbers working their way up the flanks of the ridge experienced heavy rockfall, enough to induce retreat for a team after one climber had his helmet shattered.

The upper portions of the route above the Black Pyramid are still in decent shape and the 'schrund still offers interesting climbing but unfortunately may not be worth the hazard at this time. If you were planning on Lib Ridge, consider other classic routes such as Ptarmigan or the Mowich Face. Stay tuned for more photos.

July 20th

These photos of a massive avalanche on the lower half of the ridge were taken from the air on the 20th.

Liberty Ridge 2010- July 14th

Liberty Ridge is in great shape and seeing lots of traffic in the last week including multiple teams of climbers and one almost complete ski descent by a party of three. Despite some soft snow on the approach and the lower route due to abnormally high freezing temps the route and approach was super straightforward.

The route should be in good conditions for several more week as our late season snowfall has finally shaped up on the north side of the mountain.

Fresh debris from serac fall off the Liberty Wall. Both the Willis Wall and Liberty Wall provided ample entertainment at the Thumb Rock bivy with lots of rockfall and avalanches; wear your helmet!

The 'schrund at 13,200 ft. goes at AI3 and is really only about 50 ft. of technical terrain. An ice screw or two would provide sufficient protection.

These Google Earth shots show the rangers' route along the Winthrop and Carbon Glaciers as well as the top out on Liberty Cap and the long mile to Columbia Crest. Rangers carried over the top to Camp Muir but most parties prefer to forgo the true summit and descend the Emmons to Camp Schurman.

The approach from White River is mostly snowfree on the new and improved re-route to Glacier Basin. From there it's all snow for the rest of the route. The camping at Lower Curtis Ridge is on exposed rock but please be mindful of your impact. USE YOUR BLUEBAGS. Rangers approached via the west side of the icefall to the toe of the ridge and did not have any trouble with the lower 'schrund.

Virtually the whole route is on snow with some bits of rock and a little ice on the way up to Thumb Rock. The climbing was quite easy but be mindful of the potential for rockfall. At Thumb Rock we did notice some human waste and disposed of it properly. Please use BLUEBAGS and PACK IT OUT!! Thumb Rock bivy is awesome, but be advised our GPS calls it 10,500 approx. rather than 10760 ft. Don't be discouraged, it's easy climbing up to the Black Pyramid; we went left out of camp. Above the Black Pyramid there was no exposed ice and while some parties pitched out the steeper climber with pickets, we still managed with a ski pole and one ice tool.

The climbing above the 'schrund was still fairly steep and some parties pitched this out while other climbers felt comfortable unroped. Unfortunately, you do have to top out Liberty Cap to go anywhere else and the traverse to Columbia Crest is a long mile. That said we managed to climb in t-shirts all the way to the summit and down to Camp Muir in what were some of the best conditions of the year.

May 14

Rangers just returned from an attempt on Liberty Ridge, having approached from White River through Glacier Basin. They reached approximately 9800 ft. before turning back due to what appeared to be high avalanche conditions on the ridge itself. That said, with high temps and sunny conditions the route should come into good shape in the next week.

We approached via the Glacier Basin trail at White River. Keep in mind that White River is still closed at 410, so this approach involves several miles of plowed road before reaching the campground and trailhead. The approach was made on skis and while helpful eventually the first mile or two on the trail was an exercise in patience as the trail has melted out in places and involved perhaps 15 stream crossings. Were we to do it again I might get a super-early (frozen) start and bootpack the first mile or so before putting on my skis.

After entering Glacier Basin we took the obvious right towards St. Elmo Pass. Again be considerate of your timing as this is an east-facing slope loaded with snow so wet-slab avalanches are a possibility. We made good time across the Winthrop and Curtis Ridge but don't be fooled. You will need to cross Curtis Ridge completely on the far side at 7200 ft. As nice as it seems to gain some elevation on the traverse there is no way through the sheer cliffs on the far west side of Curtis Ridge.

Once on the Carbon we picked our way up towards Liberty Ridge trending on climber's left of the ridge. We began to encounter new unconsolidated snow at around 8000 ft. After traversing under the ridge to the west side we gained the ridge on skis at 8700 ft. The snow was deeper and steeper and became a real concern in terms of avalanche potential. Once on the ridge we switched to crampons hoping that just a little higher we would find compacted frozen neve. We quickly found out that there was even more snow higher resulting in thigh-deep postholing. The snow was 3-4 ft. deep with a shallow windcrust on top and a firm icy bed surface. With the sun just coming over the ridge we decided that climbing 5000 ft. of hanging snowfields under these conditions was not a good idea. We beat a hasty retreat of the ridge and skied excellent corn down to 7200 ft. on the Carbon.

Temps Wednesday-Thursday-Friday were abnormally hot without any wind. I would assume that the sun should either settle or slough any unstable snow in the next few days. However, if you want to climb this route this weekend please consider the avalanche potential on the route and either time your climbing with temperature and aspect or maybe push it back a week or two.

Freezing levels have been abnormally high, in the 9000 ft. range the past few days. I would hope that temps will cool off to normal and one should be able to approach and climb in boots without the need for flotation given early alpine starts. Definitely check freezing levels before heading out.

Liberty Ridge 2010- May 5

Hwy 410 (Chinook Pass) is now open so you can get as far as the turnoff to the White River entrance. Leave your car on the north side of the road behind the monument. The road up to White River Campground is snow free (5 miles). We are planning to open the road by May 21st, but check here for updates as we may get it open a few days early. Twenty- four hour self-registration is still in affect at the White River Ranger Station a half mile past the closed gate.

The info. below is still current for the Carbon approach.

DG

Liberty Ridge 2010 - April 21

We have had no reports yet, but the route should be in great shape. Check out the road access and registration info. below.

Carbon River Approach

If approaching from Carbon River, consider that at present the road is closed at the entrance station. Park there and secure your things in a way as to not invite thieves into your vehicle. Twenty-four hour self-registration is still in affect. There is very little snow left on your way to the base of the Carbon Glacier. The trail to the Carbon River camp is washed out, so Cataract Creek will have to be forded. For the route beyond this point, we have no info. at this time.

White River Approach:

Currently the road is closed at the park boundary on U.S.410. You can park in the snowplay parking lot and start your climb there; turn left on Crystal Blvd. and the parking lot is just to your right. (Do NOT park in front of the gate on 410 itself - you may be towed). Self-registration is available 24 hours a day at the White River Ranger Station.

Highway 410/123 may be open as early as April 30; check with the Washington state DOT web site for more up-to-date info.

DG

Liberty Ridge 2010 - April 8th

Conditions are snowy right now!

There hasn't yet been anyone in the Liberty Ridge area this spring. This is probably due to the White River road still being affected by the winter closure. However, before long the road will be open and north-side climbing will commence.

Now for the vague details. Highway 410 and the White River road will open sometime in the mid-May time frame. Stay tuned to the park website:
http://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/road-status.htm

or the DOT website:
http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/passinformation.aspx

When the White River road opens the WIC will be open for climbing registration from 7 to 7 on Fridays and 7:30 to 4:30 all other days. If anyone gets the urge to hike, bike or snowmachine(only as far as the campground!) in before then, please self register at the White River ranger station.

As for all early season climbs be prepared for deep sloppy snow, avalanche hazards and sudden storms when venturing out into the m0untains. Stay tuned to this post for more info as we get closer to climbing season, and if anyone gets to this route before we do, drop us an email and let us know what you find.

For previous year's conditions check out this link.

Kautz Glacier 2010

2010-04-08T17:46:00.003-07:00

September 3rd

Photo of the ice pitches taken from the Tatoosh

Kautz Glacier 2010 - August 20

For detailed route information please see the narration from August 15th. As for updated conditions, the ice pitches are a little longer, the approach up from Glacier Vista is a lot more talus and glacial debris and the high crevasses below the crater rim are getting a bit bigger. Otherwise it is an excellent route that will hang tough well into September.

Bear in mind the large 1/2 mile-long crevasse just below the crater may shut you down at 14,000ft. If so try and work climbers' right until either you find a bridge or perhaps intersect the DC. The higher you go the shorter the traverse.

August 15

A recent ranger patrol of the Kautz pretty much confirmed what we had been thinking...The Kautz is a beautiful climb! Conditions are still great with a direct approach going via the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers, and beautiful upper route conditions.

Coming out of Paradise, climbers should take the Deadhorse Creek trail for about a half a mile and then turn left onto the Moraine trail, which will take you down to the Nisqually. Once there climbers can go one of two ways. One way and the one I prefer is to head up the Nisqually and over to the Wilson glacier, which is still in great shape. The other option is to cross the Nisqually around 6,000' and ascend the Fan climbing to the prominent ridge at 7,200' and continuing onto the camps at the Turtle. With both of these approaches, rockfall hazard definitely is an issue in spots, so look around and move quickly if it looks like you are under a looming cliff. A third way to go with more elevation gain but with better wildflower views is to leave from Comet Falls and hike through Van Trump Park and over the Van Trump Glaciers. This route meets up with the main approach around 7,200'.

High camps for the Kautz are along the west side of the Turtle with the ones between 10,400' and 10,600' being the best. Please avoid creating new tent platforms in the rocks and use the really nice ones that are already there! Running water can be found in abundance at 9,400' but there is not as much above.

To get down to the Kautz Glacier from the Turtle find the rappel station at 10,800' and descend. Four days ago we could still walk off the ridge onto the glacier because of abundant snow, but expect that to slowly change over the next few weeks. There are two distinct pitches of ice on the route right now. The first is 50 degrees at its steepest and the second is 55 to 60 near the top. Each pitch is approximately 60-80 meters in length. These sections could be climbed with one standard ice ax, but two ice tools definitely makes them really cruiser. Ice screws are recommended for protection in this area. Above the chute the route climbs over the top of Wapowety Clever and continues on a upward easterly traverse to the crater rim. There are a few big crevasses opening up in this area, but they are easy to navigate through and/or around.

Climbers could descend the Kautz, downclimbing or rappelling the ice pitches, or carry over and descend the DC. Please remember to take and use your blue bags when climbing the Kautz! Carry them down to proper deposit barrels at Camp Muir or Paradise also! No one wants to run into your full blue bag when they are setting up their tents. Please respect our environment and your fellow climbers.

July 22nd

The Kautz Glacier route now has some icy patches showing through. Guided groups and independent parties have both been able to climb, and down climb, with ease. The icy patches are shorter than what a 30 m rope can span. The upper section above the two ice pitches still isn't broken up too much, allowing climbers good, direct, access to the crater rim or Point Success.

Lots of skiers have been making tracks from high camp down to the base of Glacier Vista on their return trip. A couple of parties have also been using the "Fan" to access the West Nisqually Ridge line, but reported almost constant rockfall - remember your helmets!

July 7th

Recent reports from the Kautz have all been very positive. Climbers have been reporting the Kautz chute is still almost all snow, and the route in general is very direct. Parties have been approaching via the Wilson Glacier, and camping between 9,400' and 10,800' on the Turtle snowfield.

Forecasts this week call for very warm temperatures so expect deep and soft snow conditions on the route, especially in the middle of the day. Travel early to avoid postholing.

May 11th

The Kautz Glacier along with all the other south side routes are in prime shape at the moment, and what looks to be a solid stint of good weather should provide ample climbing and skiing opportunities for the rest of the week.

As of now the approach to the Kautz is very direct. Access the Turtle by heading up the Nisqually and getting onto the Wilson at around 7000' or staying on the Nisqually navigating fairly gentle terrain until traversing across the Wilson around 8800'. Be wary of steep slopes low on the glaciers that are prone to avalanches in warm weather.

There are many good places to camp depending on the time frame of your group. The most notable of these are found along the prominent rock ridge that separates the Turtle snowfield from the Wilson Glacier, from 7800' to 9400'. Higher camps can be found along the west edge of the Turtle from 10000' to 11000'.

The upper part of the Kautz looks to be in great shape with snow covering the entire route. Access the lower Kautz at the 10800' level to avoid prolonged exposure to icefall hazards. As of now we don't have any specifics on the condition of the ice chute, so climbers would be advised to bring a second tool and a couple of ice screws, but expect conditions to be predominantly snow. From the top of the chute the rest of the route should go very direct along the upper Kautz to the crater rim.

April 9th

Logistics:

Climber registration is currently available only at the Longmire Museum or the Paradise old station (little gray A-frame in front of the CIC) self-registration box. Please be diligent and make sure you register and purchase 2010 climbing passes. Unregistered climbers run the risk of not being rescued if overdue simply because there would be no record of them on the mountain. The Climbing Information Center will be open on weekends beginning May 7th and will open full time on May 28th. The Climbing Rangers will be in and out of the office over the next several weeks but will be returning calls if messages are left at 360 569 6009.If approaching the Park from the East side to climb the DC or other routes beginning at Paradise be advised that 410/Chinook Pass is scheduled to open May 21st. Stevens Canyon Road is scheduled to open May 28th. It is highly recommended that before heading towards Paradise one calls the Park for updated road conditions as they are highly weather dependent at this time. 360 569 2211.

The Route:

While there have been multiple attempts on the Kautz already this season the success rate has been quite low. Climbers should be prepared for DEEP snow, avalanche conditions, and full winter expedition-style climbing. In the last week alone the Paradise area has received over 8 ft. of new snow with natural and skier-triggered avalanches running on all aspects. Skis and snowshoes are strongly recommended if one wants to get beyond the parking lot. Avalanche beacons, probe poles, shovels and the knowledge to use them are also strongly encouraged when venturing into avalanche terrain. You can bet that "the Fan", "the Turtle" and other aspects of the upper mountain are poised to avalanche with the right trigger.

With that said, climbing rangers have been enjoying the late winter fluff around the mountain. Just play safe and continually check the latest weather reports before departing on any adventure to the upper mountain.

This post will be updated with more detailed route information as it becomes available.

See you on the mountain!

Muir Snowfield & Camp Muir 2010

2010-04-08T17:45:00.001-07:00

October 6th

The Muir Snowfield is in excellent condition for early October. The trail stays on snow from Pebble Creek on up, and surface conditions are firm, consolidated snow. Crampons are recommended if you are traveling early or late in the day. There are no wands marking the trail at this time so be comfortable with your navigation skills.

Always check the forecast before heading to Muir and plan accordingly, but know the weather can change suddenly at any time. Be prepared for wind!

The toilets at Muir have been winterized. The solar toilets are closed and the pit toilets are open. Please make sure all the doors are securely latched when you are finished.

The public shelter is open. Please help keep this building in good condition. Remember to close and latch all doors and to not leave any food or gear behind. There is a shovel that lives outside of the shelter. It is used to dig the doors out after snow storms. Please make sure it is accessible and secure.

There is an emergency radio in the public shelter. Use this in the event of an emergency to contact the NPS.

September 22

The Muir Snowfield is in excellent shape right now. Fresh snow that has fallen above 7,000' in the past couple of weeks has made travel very nice, and the skiing is actually fairly decent at the moment!

Take any of the Paradise trails past Panorama Point and then onto Pebble Creek, where the actual Muir Snowfield starts. From here the route stays on snow the whole way to Camp Muir. There are no crevasses open on the snowfield this season.

The fresh snow does have a tendency to cover up the old tracks, so be sure to have some sort of navigation aid, like map and compass or GPS with you. Remember your sunscreen and sunglasses, even if the weather is overcast when you start hiking. Often you get above the clouds on the way to Muir.

August 31st

The way to Pebble Creek is almost entirely snow free. Stop by the ranger office or visitor center for a map of the Paradise area Trails. The snowfield itself held together through August unseasonably well. There are only minor glide cracks opening up between Moon Rocks and Anvil Rock. The hard, glacial, ice patch hasn't been melting out like usual either, making crampons unnecessary when hiking during the middle of the day. Also, BE CAREFUL OF STORMY WEATHER. This time of year can be extra dangerous on the snowfield due to sudden and violent storms. Make sure your team can navigate in a white out while in the middle of the snowfield, and make sure everyone on the team has extra warm clothes.

Skiing and snowboarding can be done, but it's rough. Small and hard sun-cups have formed on the snowfield, making for horrible moguls. It's probably safest to walk down the snowfield this time of year.

Please remember to take all garbage and food down with you when leaving Camp Muir. Foxes have been around Camp Muir for the last couple of months and will eat any food and choke on any wrappers left behind.

August 17th

Getting to Camp Muir now requires about as much walking on dirt (or asphalt) as it does walking on snow. The trails are almost completely melted out below Pebble Creek and the flowers are in bloom! Please be aware of where you are walking when you are in the Paradise Meadows. The plants in these areas have super short growing seasons and are very susceptible to damage from climbing boots. Help us set a good example for everyone and stay on the designated trails until you get onto the snowfield.

The snowfield itself is in incredible shape for mid to late August (see photo to right, taken from the Turtle Snowfield). No icy sections have melted out and not a single "glide crack" (crevasse) has opened up, yet. Beware that the snow itself firms up at night and makes travel without crampons extremely difficult.

Once you get to Muir and set up camp be sure to secure your food so animals won't get into it. Raven, rosy finch, mouse, and fox can all get food if it is left out in the open. Fox can get food when it is in your pack, although he hasn't broken into any tents yet.

Please remember to clean up after yourself, and if you want to be a good person, pick up some trash you didn't even leave behind!

July 28

The Snowfield still offers plenty of snow beyond Pebble Creek but the wildflowers and critters are out in droves from Paradise up to 7000 ft. As for ski conditions, massive sun cups and the need for a 5000 ft hike for a 2000 ft ski seems a little ridiculous at this point. That said, skiing the upper mountain is still a possibility so consider your vertical gain vs. descent before humping up the Skyline Trail in ski boots.

Rangers descending from Camp Muir picked up copious amounts of trash on the snowfield. Please. It is not obvious to everyone that there is no trash removal service at Camp Muir or on the Muir Snowfield. If each visitor were to leave even a 1/4 lb of garbage behind, with an average of over 200 visitors a day peak season, that's . . . yup . . . 50 lbs a day!!! Way too much for us to carry down, plus we've got our own garbage to carry. Please help us out. As the snow continues to melt please be mindful of hidden trash and pick up stuff that may not be yours. Come in and show us what you bring down and you will see some very happy ranger faces.

Camp Muir is still holding lots of snow, which has helped keep the dust down this summer. Slim Shady, the wily upper mountain Rainier Fox, has been tagging the summit regularly by following climbers and nabbing their dropped food wrappers and food left outside their tents. Please keep your site tight at Camp Muir and pick up all your trash on the route.

July 22nd

The snowfield has continued to melt rapidly these last couple of days. The trail to Alta Vista is almost all snow free, so are large portions of the major switchback to Pan Point, and Sections around Pebble Creek are also showing. Pebble Creek is currently the last bit of running water for climbers to access on their way to Camp Muir.

Skiers are finding the snowfield to be more and more sun-cupped. This makes for a bumpy ride, especially early in the morning. It's best to ski down between the hours of 10:30 and 12:00 on sunny days.

These nice sunny days have offered amazingly unobstructed views of the Southern Cascades. Come on up and share the view with a good friend.

July 6th

Hot temperatures and lots of sun have been melting the snowfield rapidly this week. Skiers now have to click out of their bindings at least twice on the way from Camp Muir to Paradise. The meadow is beginning to melt out in patches along the trail.

The summer route up to Camp Muir is now standard. The awesome Paradise trail crew has marked the route with wands and bamboo to get you on the right track. Please help us protect the fragile landscape.

June 24

Skiers are still able to rip all the way from Camp Muir to Paradise without unclipping and walking over rock bands. Some skiers reporting 12 minute descents, while snowboarders are cruising in at a cool 14 minutes.

Panorama Point's face is still the way all climbers are taking to get to Camp Muir. Just be aware of where you're stepping when you get close to the Panorama Point toilet. The melted-out patches of meadow are extremely fragile right now.

Most parties are still choosing to take the longer "winter-route" above Panorama Point, instead of short-cutting through Pebble Creek. Bamboo wands are placed at fairly frequent intervals, but do not depend on them for navigation.

With the recent nice weather and clear atmosphere, Mount Jefferson in Oregon has been visible. Come on up and take in the view yourself!

June 15

Despite a media frenzy concerning extreme avalanche danger throughout the state, independent-minded folks braved the sunny weather and excellent conditions to enjoy beautiful conditions at Camp Muir this weekend. There were several hundred hikers and climbers on the snowfield both days and a perfect spring corn cycle made for excellent ski conditions. Rangers at Camp Muir also found excellent skiing just above Muir on the Triple A Couloir and Cadaver Gap.

On a separate note, while this Jack Russell Terrier appears to be fully prepared for high mountain glacier travel, can anyone tell me what's wrong with this picture? Yes, he is roped up with the appropriate footwear and is even practicing self-arrest on safe terrain on the Cowlitz but....that's right, he is a DOG! As stated just a few weeks ago dogs are NOT ALLOWED past the parking lot in ANY National Park!! You could buy a climbing pass for this dog and get the requisite wilderness permit and he would still NOT BE ALLOWED at Camp Muir!! Clearly, this is not the dog's fault. The owner expressed 'remembering' that dogs were not allowed only after getting halfway up the snowfield. Apparently during the two hour drive, leashing, and shodding of his dog he was incapable of remembering this rule???? Don't be stupid. If you can't remember this simple rule you clearly do not have the proper situational awareness and keen judgment necessary to be camping at Camp Muir.

On a more scientific note, the reticent but accomplished lead Climbing Ranger Stefan Lofgren can be seen here in government issue hot pink CROCs installing the new solar radiation monitor at Camp Muir. While really just doing what his wife told him to do, this will enable the public to see just how much solar penetration the upper mountain is receiving. This is helpful not only when deciding whether it is worth a 3 hour hike in the rain to achieve solar bliss at Camp Muir but also as a way for avalanche technicians around the world to see how much sun is penetrating the snowpack. This will be invaluable information with respect to last week's fatal avalanche and a great way for spring skiers to anticipate ski conditions. Look for more updates and links to the our new solar radiation monitor in the next few weeks.

June 13

The snowfield baked in the sun all day yesterday and will do the same today. Expect soft and wet conditions. Point-release slides were observed on the steep face just below Panorama Point. Wet point-releases are still possible on the steeper slopes, but with proper route selection traveling to and from Camp Muir is perfectly reasonable.

June 1

Currently, climbing rangers are staffing Muir on a fairly regular basis, schedule permitting. Several bathrooms are open and maintained by the illustrious and enigmatic Ted Cox. NPS asks all independent climbers to maintain a clean and tidy public shelter, bathrooms and snowfield. A Rainier Fox has been spotted several times at Muir sniffing around looking for scraps. Make sure that you pack ALL your trash out and if you are planning on awakening in the middle of the night to climb please keep your food inside your tent. Foxes have deprived teams of food for summit bids in the past so please keep a tidy camp!!

Come on up to Camp Muir and get your alpine on!! The skiing and climbing have been great so far!

May 21

Travel to Camp Muir has been going on under cloudy and snowy conditions for the past few days but that hasn't slowed down hardy climbers and skiers from getting out and enjoying their national park. With over a foot of new snow on the ground, snow shoes or skis are recommended to provide a little flotation to your steps. A GPS with waypoints and/or a compass and bearing sheet are also very useful things to have at the moment, for when the clouds roll in and the visibility becomes poor. The route to Muir is well wanded at the moment, but don't rely 100% on wand navigation, since they can blow away, break, or get buried by new snow.

Wintry weather aside, conditions are great for just getting out and about. Breaks in the weather have provided excellent opportunities for skiing and snowboarding and we have seen many people getting out and training for future climbs.

May18th

Conditions are excellent on the Muir Snowfield with snow from Camp Muir all the way down to the Paradise parking lot. Make sure you wax your skis and time your approaches to get the best corn conditions. Other day hikers are encouraged to either have flotation of some sort like snowshoes or be prepared to posthole at some point on their hike. Trekking poles help greatly for travel in deep snow conditions.

Several hundred people enjoyed great weather at the end of last week up at Camp Muir including an unleashed Cairn Terrier. While probably not the first terrier ascent of the snowfield dog owners are reminded of National Park Policy which requires all pets to be leashed in developed areas (ie parking lots, trailheads) and nowhere are dogs allowed on or off trail. That said, it was a pretty proud ascent for someone with four inch legs.

Travelers to Muir should anticipate low avalanche hazard providing they follow the wanded climbers route. Unless you dip into the Nisqually or the Paradise Glacier there is very little hazard on the way up the snowfield. Once at Camp Muir please use the eastside 'handicap' toilet. The westside toilet is open to guided clients only. Please B.Y.O.T.P. Unfortunately, conditions have made toilet maintenance challenging and hopefully by this coming weekend more facilities are made available. Finally, if you plan on using the public shelter you must PACK IT OUT! Climbing Rangers removed over 40 POUNDS of garbage after independent climbers assured them that they would pack it out. This is LAME and unacceptable! Your mother does not work at Camp Muir. Please respect the environment and public property and leave the shelter and the Camp Muir grounds clean and enjoyable for the next group.

April 21st

There is no lack of snow between Paradise and Camp Muir. Travel to Camp Muir is best approached on skis, splitboard or snowshoes this time of year. Take care to assess avalanche danger along your journey as snow conditions can change rapidly in the early spring. During periods of questionable avalanche danger either avoid travel all-together or choose your route wisely to minimize time in avalanche terrain.

Toilets are open at Camp Muir, but be sure to B.Y.O.T.P. Climbers planning on traveling above Muir are required to self-register at the Paradise Old Station (small A-frame adjacent to the paradise parking lot) or the Longmire Museum (during open hours). Overnight parking is located in the Paradise lower lot.

GK

Disappointment Cleaver 2010

2010-04-08T17:43:00.001-07:00

October 6

The DC is in about as good a shape as it ever is for October. Fresh and consolidated snow are the predominate conditions throughout the route. Snowbridges have been strengthening, making direct travel to the summit easier once above the Cleaver.

Remember to register before you climb, either at the Longmire WIC or at the self registration box at the Paradise Old Station.

Check out the Muir Snowfield post for approach and camp conditions.

Have Fun, Be Safe.

September 25

September 22

Here is a report from IMG guides. Note the interesting results from snow pits that were dug.

We arrived Camp Muir at 2:15 September 19th, after walking through about an hour of graupel coming up the snow field. The winds were a constant 25-30 mph and visibility was approximately 20 meters. We spent most of the day Monday the 20th waiting out a storm. During this storm approximately 6-10 inches of new snow fell. It was hard to tell what was falling from the sky or what was spindrift. Most of that day was spent trying to get a feel for how much wind transport and deposit we were getting. We were able to get a few glimpses of the Cleaver through Cadaver Gap and our initial impression was that the upper mountain was getting significant loading. Furthermore, places that have had no snow since mid- July were getting their bed surfaces for the winter.

Later, that day IMG Guides Mike Haft, and Tye Gimenez decided to go poke around in the snow on the backside of Cathedral Rocks in an area known to guides as "Dunn's Roll." It is a NE aspect at an elevation of approximately 11,000 feet. Mike Haft dug a test pit, which did confirm our forecast that there are slabs present on the mountain with weak layers. On Mike's first pit, his shovel gave us a glimpse of the graupel that had fallen on our ascent to Camp Muir. There is a 30 cm slab above this layer, with a Q1 shear. Next, Mike performed a compression test. The test indicated that the layer could possibly be widespread on elevations from 10,000-11,000 feet. His results were CTE 4, Q1. On the morning of Tuesday September 21, we returned to the same area to dig another pit. We had the same results on the compression test, but were surprised to find on the shovel shear that we would get a failure at 100 cm Q1 on an unidentifiable layer.

With freezing levels remaining low and a front building, north-northeast aspects could remain loaded until they get a couple more days of radiation to settle the new snow that has fallen. As far as route conditions, Disappointment Cleaver could benefit from the new snow after we have had a settlement, making the Cleaver resemble early season conditions.

Joshua Tapp
International Mountain Guides

August 29th

Another ladder was added to the DC route this weekend. It spans a crevasse, at about 12,700 feet, enabling the traverse onto the Emmons Shoulder to continue along a direct path. The route still seems to be in good shape overall. Be extremely cautious with the larger snow bridges in warm weather. A few snow bridges and plugs are large enough to have two or more rope team members on them at a time, depending on your team's spacing, so don't be shy about belaying partners across them.

The cleaver itself has melted out completely. Teams are now traversing onto the cleaver (the moat between the Ingraham and the cleaver is holding up well) straight to the spine. After hitting the spine of the cleaver, the route continues straight up the spine for approx. 100 m, then traverses out to climbers' left. The route previously gained the snow field on the side of the cleaver after this left traverse, but now it switches back to climbers' right and heads back to the spine of the cleaver, and climbers stay on the rock all the way to the top of the cleaver. Again, be extremely cautious of rockfall on the cleaver. Communicate with other parties and time your traverses accordingly.

Make note of the ladder at 13,900 feet shown in the photo, good rope management and conservative belay techniques should be considered.

August 25th

Not much different than last weeks route though some of the critical snowbridges are looking 'paper thin' in places. In particular the bridge pictured below has seen some abuse and climbers and guides are anticipating a new route variation in the coming days.

Even so, the DC has seen plenty of successful summits and the guide services have done an excellent job of cleaning up odd wands and trash on the route. Currently the route on the Cleaver is traveling up the spine avoiding the snowfields. Look for the reflective wands put in place by RMI and when in doubt stay close to the ridge on climbers right.

August 18th

Climbers are heading out to the Emmons Shoulder ever since a big "plug" of snow fell and the "direct route" was blocked by a major crevasse opening. The new route, which traverses at about 12.700 feet, from just above the cleaver to the Emmons Shoulder, is a little longer, but has a much more moderate slope, than the original route.

The moat between the Ingraham Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver is holding up well. There have been no troubles gaining the spine of the cleaver at 11, 300. Please move quickly through this section, as it is one of the most objectively hazardous areas on the route.

Over all the route is in great shape. The ladder at 13,800 is still in, and anchored well. Please remember to be courteous and communicate with other parties when approaching possible bottleneck areas (traversing onto the cleaver, traversing onto the Emmons Shoulder, crossing the ladder, etc.).

Here's the GPS track of our trip up on the 18th. The route is going to change soon, but generally it is still traversing to the Emmon's Shoulder.

August 15th

The DC is in prime August shape. It is currently very sidewalk-like and if you can't follow that footpath (it does seem like it might be a crevasse in certain places, but no it's just that well worn) there are wands about every 30' marking the route.

The route climbs up the the DC itself, which is still about half snow covered at the moment, and from the top at 12,300' traverses north for a while before splitting to go one of two ways. The more established way starts to ascend sooner and the route winds its way through some very large and impressive crevasses, over a ladder, and onward to the summit. The second and newer route continues the traverse longer, actually going out to the Emmons Shoulder before climbing to the summit. Both of these routes intersect around 14,000' so pay attention to this when you are heading down.

Even though this route is well traveled and maintained by guide companies, we still encourage people to think for themselves while climbing. There are at least two fairly steep sections that cross snow bridges between 12,600' and 13,600' on the route. Proceed with caution as a fall in these areas could be catastrophic...belays could be useful! Rockfall can be a big hazard this time of year so be aware of where your team is in relation to terrain features and other climbing parties. Please avoid knocking rocks onto climbers below you!

August 11th

The DC is still climbing well and low freezing temps are keeping the route in good shape. While guided teams are working on an alternative route the current path to the top requires only one ladder at 13,800 ft and is still fairly straightforward.

Please follow good glacier travel protocols with pickets, prussiks, helmets and the requisite skills to make for a safe climb. Rock and ice fall is always a hazard on the DC and as the season continues more and more crevasses are opening up, including several right out of Camp Muir. If your skills are a little rusty take advantage of large cracks just below Camp Muir and take a day to review crevasse rescue skills such as mechanical advantage systems and belay techaniques on real crevassed terrain.

Steep terrain around 13,000 ft. Rangers witnessed at least one party fall down this short 20 ft feature. Please take the time to either belay or short-rope your team down dangerous sections including the rocky portions of the Cleaver.

July 28th

It does not get a whole lot better than this: mostly perfect days and nights at Camp Muir and stellar climbing conditions on the DC! Check out the July 18th report below on the DC as it offers detailed Google Earth displays of the route that has changed significantly in the last ten days. A couple of reminders however....freezing levels have remained high and we encourage folks to stay roped up as soon as they leave Camp Muir.

The wily fox Slim Shady has made his presence known all over the mountain and climbers are reminded to keep their food zipped up tight in their tents, wrappers and bluebags picked up and kept in packs all the way to the summit and back. The climbing rangers at Camp Muir would much prefer that the fox snack on his natural prey of mice.

July 18th

We had a nice climb of the cleaver. We started at Paradise at 3:00 a.m. Arrived at Camp Muir around 4:50. At 5:30 we left Camp Muir.

The route is in GREAT shape. Wow. I love all this snow this year. It's really holding the route together well this year. Across the Cowlitz, there aren't even a whole lot of crevasses showing, but trust me, they are lurking not too far underneath. With the warmer temperatures down here at this point in the climb, make sure to rope up through here.

There are now rocks exposed and a dirt trail ascending up to Cathedral Gap, so please watch who's above and below you! Time ascents through this area and work with other parties. Watch who may be coming down over the gap as you ascend.

Behind the gap, and starting up towards Ingraham Flats, the route is also in really great condition.
If you're camping at Ingraham Flats, PLEASE USE BLUEBAGS! On the way down, we had the notorious task of picking up other people's mushy turds just like you pick up your dog's in the park. It's disgusting. If you didn't get bluebags before your climb, please ask the ranger at Camp Muir. We keep a stock there, too.

The route stays very close to what is normal for this time of year. Access to the cleaver, right now is EASY, with no weird crevasses or seracs to negotiate. However, as you crest the little ridge in the middle of the Ingraham before you make the traverse to the cleaver, there has been a recent ice avalanche. A route has been established that circumnavigates around the bottom. It would be prudent to follow that, as other ice avalanches are likely to take the same path. Please use the top of this Ingraham pressure ridge to wait for other parties to get to the nose of the cleaver.

Getting onto the cleaver is the most dangerous part of the climb. Above the tip of the nose (a safe place to stop), there are rocks starting to show. This means that they can be kicked off from people above you. Please pay very, very close attention to where other people. Talk, and communicate with them. Coordinate with the adjacent parties.

Switch back and forth, up mostly snow, the rest of the way to the top of the cleaver. This is also a good place to rest and take a break. It is common practice that while ascending from the nose of the cleaver to the top to "short rope", which means to gather in a coil so you are about 10 feet behind the person in front of you, and carry that coil. There are no crevasses on the cleaver. Remember that it is customary to stay tied in (and not untie and unrope completely) because this would take a little too much time, especially for larger parties, and may cause back-ups on busy weekends!

Next up is the Ingraham headwall. Right now it's about as good as it ever gets. There are crevasses to cross and some have saggy bridges. This section will change frequently over the next few weeks.

The rest of the route just switches back and forth to the top.

If you'd like to download the (kml - google earth) file so you can view the route in 3D, I have posted it here. Once you have the data, there are ways to get it into your GPS. Please use this file only for historical and general navigational purposes only. As stated above, the route will change frequently in the next few weeks. Sometimes it does so dramatically - which would render using this file in your navigation misleading.

July 14th

The DC is in!!! Climbers have for the most part given up on the I.D. due to serac hazard and focused their ascents on the DC. Despite high winds it has received ascents virtually every day over the last week.

Please be mindful of the many fixed lines on the Cleaver. These are put in place as hand lines by the guide services and are not meant to be prussiked into. Also consider short-roping or shortening your rope to 5 meters or so on the Cleaver and keeping your party tight.

There are some bridges above the Cleaver which may require a belay. Slam a picket in and belay your team across if you have any doubts. However, please be respectful of other teams and guide parties and step to the side if setting up or taking a break.

Ingraham Flats has seen plenty of traffic and as a result there has been an issue with human waste. USE YOUR BLUEBAGS and PACK IT OUT!! Fines will be levied if this sort of misbehavior continues.

July 6th

Guide companies have been working on the traverse onto the cleaver in anticipation of switching their route toward the cleaver soon. Here's a photo of their progres...

June 24th

No parties have been on the cleaver proper. See the Ingraham Direct's route report for updated news on the standard route out of Camp Muir. As soon as the standard route switches to the cleaver we'll put an update up here.

June 11

Just a quick note; this morning the guide companies turned around at the top of Catherdral Gap. The snow stability is still questionable. Stay tuned, with the forecasted decent weather this weekend we will get more info on the snowpack.

June 9

Here's a pic from Ingraham Flats looking over to the cleaver. There's been no major slide activity on the cleaver and no parties climbing it yet this season. This route is not recommended until avalanche dangers subside. Check out the Ingraham Direct - it's been the main route for climbers summiting from Camp Muir.

June 1

While the weather has been often times discouraging and difficult to predict, many teams have rallied and summited via the Ingraham Direct over the past week. Climbing just prior to the weekend was hampered by avalanche concerns particularly on the east side of Cathedral Gap but with some warm weather stabilizing the snowpack many climbers did indeed summit over the weekend. Guides from RMI, IMG, and AAI did a great job coordinating resources and worked together to put in a safe route to the summit that was very well marked.

Weather was variable with one or two decent windows over the weekend and plenty of fresh snowfall and considerable wind loading. The skiing was also variable with windscour and some glaze ice above 12,000 ft, excellent cream cheese from 11-8000 ft and the classic NW 'guanch factor 12' conditions at lower elevations. Approaching Camp Muir and even continuing up the Ingraham or DC with flotation is still advised and certainly can facilitate a much faster descent if the weather turns poor.

The weather has been the biggest deciding factor this season with unseasonably wet conditions and yet another 4" of precipitation predicted this week. Make sure you register at the CIC at Paradise for your climb and get the updated forecast before setting off. The CIC is open 7 days a week from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Departing from Camp Muir please rope up as new snow has obscured crevasses and there are certainly plenty of obvious hazards as soon as you cross over Cathedral Gap. While it may be possible to end-run the crevasses around 13,000 ft., currently the route does step across several openings. Please practice safe glacier travel. Consider also if you have three days to make the climb and want to avoid the usual busy scene at Camp Muir; camp one night on the snowfield, the next night at Ingraham Flats ( a super classic glacier experience which can cut two hours off your summit day) and then descend all the way from the summit back to Paradise.

May 24

The latest storm cycle dropped about two feet of wind packed new snow. Climbing conditions are great - and skiing conditions are even greater! Parties have summited the last couple of days via Ingraham Direct. Still no parties have been climbing along the spine of the Cleaver. See the pics, taken Saturday.

Crrently climbers are staying almost centered on the Ingraham Glacier until they reach about 12,400, where they are traversing climber's right toward the top of the cleaver. The route to the summit from the top of the cleaver is still very direct. Come by the ranger station for even more current info.

May 21

The route is "in" with the Ingraham Direct actually being the path of choice for most parties. The upper mountain is still in full winter condition, with a foot or more of new storm snow covering a more consolidated base. Be wary of increased avalanche danger on loaded lee aspects. Snowshoes or skis are recommended for the approach to Muir.

May 10th

Logistics: The Climbing Information Center is open on weekends currently and will open full time on May 28th. The Climbing Rangers will be in and out of the office and up on the mountain over the next several weeks but will be returning calls if messages are left at (360) 569-6009. Climber registration is currently available only at the Longmire Museum or the Paradise old station (little gray A-frame in front of the CIC) self-registration box (and and the Climbing Information Center on weekends). Please be diligent and make sure you register and purchase 2010 climbing passes. Unregistered climbers run the risk of not being rescued if overdue simply because there would be no record of them on the mountain.

If approaching the Park from the east side to climb the DC or other routes beginning at Paradise, be advised that 410/Chinook Pass is scheduled to open May 21st. Stevens Canyon Road is scheduled to open May 28th. It is highly recommended that before heading towards Paradise one calls the Park for updated road conditions as they are highly weather dependent at this time. (360) 569-2211.

The Route:

While there have been multiple attempts on the DC already this season, the success rate has been quite low. Climbers should be prepared for DEEP snow, avalanche conditions, and full winter expedition-style climbing. Paradise continues to receive significant new snow almost daily as of this post. Skis and snowshoes are strongly recommended if one wants to travel a good deal beyond the parking lot. Avalanche beacons, probe poles, shovels and the knowledge to use them are also strongly encouraged when venturing into avalanche terrain. Those areas prone to climber- and naturally- triggered avalanches, such as Cathedral Gap, the Cleaver and other aspects of the upper mountain should be approached cautiously and with ample understanding of the snowpack on that day.

See the updated Muir Snowfield and Camp Muir route conditions site for information on approaching and camping at Muir. However, climbers should expect that a reasonable two-day ascent of the DC can and probably will turn into a longer battle under the current conditions. Proper use of map, compass and GPS are essential.

Bring your super fat boards and schralp the DC for a memorable and unparalleled ski and climbing experience!! With proper terrain management and avalanche awareness the climbing rangers have been enjoying STEEP and DEEP conditions around the Paradise area. The DC could offer 9000 ft. of SICK skiing for the avid ski mountaineer. We will keep you posted on changing conditions over the next few weeks....

Emmons/Winthrop Glacier 2010

2010-04-08T17:41:00.000-07:00

Emmons/Winthrop Glacier 2010

Opening Info:

Route Info:

Schurman Info:

Nisqually Ice Cliff - 2010

2010-03-01T14:07:00.000-08:00

Mount Rainier - Nisqually Ice Cliff
Date: 2/21/2010
I’d been interested in trying to climb Rainier solo for a while but I’d not done much about it until last week when I finally took the time to fill the solo climb request form and send it to Stefan Lofgren for approval. Thanks to Stefan’s prompt approval I was able to take advantage of the good weather last weekend.

Inspired by a trip report from 2006 when Hannah Carrigan climbed the Nisqually Ice Cliff solo my plan was to have a look at the same route on the way to Muir and climb one of the Gib routes if I didn’t like the look of it. From a distance the route is very intimidating and I was not sure. I also saw ice fall right above the top of the Gib Chute so I scratched that route too. To make the final decision I went to Nisqually Basin in the afternoon for a closer look. The closer you get the more doable the route appears. I took pictures of various sections of the route and using zoom I was able to make out a reasonable passage around the edge of the ice cliff.

It was very windy on Saturday and Sunday was not supposed to look any better. Despite that, two teams summited on Saturday, one via the Nisqually Icefall and another via the Gib Ledges. This fact helped me to leave Camp Muir in the morning at 4 am in 40 mph winds. I started climbing in stages. The first was to get to the Nisqually Basin and see if it’s protected from the wind. It was, as is generally the case for the routes left of Gibraltar Rock.

Next stage was to get to the bergschrund at the start of the ramp. I made a mistake in the dark and instead of walking directly towards the ramp I ended up too far left below the rock cliffs of the Nisqually Cleaver. This mistake put me in more danger than was necessary. I didn’t see or hear any ice fall during my time on or near the ice cliff. Still this stage was mentally the hardest since I saw two large ice falls from the cliff.
I felt in relative safety on the ramp and took a break right below the bergschrund. I decided not to move until I had enough light to climb without my headlamp. After about 20 minutes I started up the ramp. The bergschrund didn’t represent a problem as it had a nice solid bridge over it. Halfway up the ramp came the technical crux of the climb. It was some exposed rock with hard ice here and there. First I tried to traverse left through this section but it became too thin. I spotted fatter ice to my right and eventually negotiated this section that way. This was the last time I asked myself whether I really wanted to do this. I did have a 20 m rope with me that I could use to get down this section if I decided to bail later.

The third stage was to get on the shelf. When I popped out I found it in a shape better than I expected. It was not as steep as it appeared from below and was covered with nice styrofoam-like snow. At the top of the ramp the route splits into 3 routes – Nisqually Cleaver, Nisqually Cleaver right variation and the edge of the ice cliff. The "cleaver right variation" looked the easiest with least objective hazard. It crossed my mind changing my plan but at that point I was very intrigued by the cliff route so I set off along the cliff edge with the cleaver variation being my backup. A few times the route put me close to the edge enough to see down the cliff. It was more amazing than scary. I really started enjoying the climbing. There was probably one or two places where I had to swing my tools otherwise it was climbing on solid snow. Soon I was on the other side on open glacier slopes with no ice fall to worry about.

At this point I was still protected from the wind. I went to the top of Gibraltar Rock to see how bad the wind was. An option was to skip the slog to the summit and go straight down the ledges. I’ve been to the summit before and didn’t expect to find anything new up there. It felt as if the wind died down a little bit and I had plenty of time, having been climbing for only four hours so far. So I decided to keep going up. This was probably my windiest Rainier climb and it was not easy going. In some hour and a half I was at the rim greeting with the only other two climbers that got that far that day. They were already on the way down so I had the whole crater for myself. I wish it was less windy to enjoy it. I didn’t have to cross any open crevasses except a few small cracks. I remember having to jump a few crevasses last year in March.
My tracks on the ice cliff.

I descended the Gib Ledges, which not surprisingly were in awesome shape as well, actually the best shape I’ve seen. There were nice steps, which allowed for fast moving and it took me only 2 hours from the summit to Muir.

For more information, Jiri has posted pictures on picasa, click here.

Snow conditions from Paradise

2009-11-20T13:57:00.000-08:00

Sunday, February 28th, 2010

This just in from Amar Andalkar, who recently had a nice trip from 10,700 down to Paradise.
Thanks for the very quick reply. I had a great day on the Mountain yesterday, skinned to Muir and then up Cowlitz Cleaver to about 10750 ft. Skied some powder on the edge of the Cowlitz, then down the Snowfield and via Nisqually Chute all the way out to the bridge. Met Ned Randolph (former RMI guide) at Muir and ended up skiing with him, since he'd parked his car at the bridge.

The snow in the Chute was heavy powder but very stable during our run, despite a large natural sluff/slab that had run at about 11am, and several older crowns along the edges of the Chute. Snow on the Nisqually Glacier was surprisingly nice, very smooth and not sticky, and almost corn on the steep pitch at the terminus. Skiable all the way to the bridge, except for two river crossings right near the end (wet boots for me). Nice to get almost 7000 vert of mostly good skiing in a single run.

On Wednesday, 11/18, there was 6+ inches of new corn snow at Paradise. The wind had scoured most of the new snow and left a hard crust to ski on. The heather is still uncovered at the top. The Nisqually-side needs to fill in, but we found good turns east of Alta Vista.

The slopes on the east side of Edith Creek were much better and about a half dozen snowboarders and skiers had the place to themselves. The creeks are open and flowing so it's best to take the bridges. West-facing slopes were loaded and not consolidated.

One set of fresh tracks leading into the trees.

Emmons/Winthrop Glacier 2009

2009-07-10T16:11:00.000-07:00

September 12

This will probably be the last post on the Emmons for the year, and as of now the route remains in great shape. The main route up the Emmons remains the same as it has all year for the most part. You go up the corridor, then climb left around some seracs before continuing right, winding around some large crevasses and from there going directly to the summit dome, or right to Liberty Saddle.

That being said there are many variations that "go" at the moment, so adventurous climbers can have a great time exploring parts of the glacier that might not normally be on the climbing route.

There will also not be any climbing rangers staffing Schurman on a regular basis for the rest of the season. The solar toilet can be used but climbers should be sure to secure the door and building as they found it with the rope and ratchet strap before they leave. This helps ensure that the building won't twist and blow apart over the winter. The blue bag barrels are also inside the toilet now, please leave them there.

Thanks to everyone who came to enjoy the mountain this season. Have a great winter!

1st

As Labor Day approaches and temperatures cool off, climbing on the Emmons remains a fun and beautiful late season objective. The route is currently is very good shape for this time of year. There have been parties traversing to Liberty Saddle and then onto the summit, as well as climbing a very direct line through large snow ramps over the bergschrund. Both variations provide great climbing on everything from new snow to glacial ice and some great close up views of seracs and large crevasses.

Come in to the White River Ranger Station to register and get more beta. Climbing rangers will also be at Schurman to give the latest updates on the route. See you on the mountain.

August 21

Although late season conditions prevail there is still great climbing and beautiful scenery to enjoy on the Emmons. Mid-August storms deposited fresh snow above 10,000 ft. and with cooler yet still pleasant temperatures climbing conditions are excellent.

The approach to Schurman via the Inter Glacier is still the preferred approach for climbers but be prepared to use your climbing gear as there is water ice exposed on the lower part of the glacier. Some parties have found ice screws useful for running belays in this area. The slope is not that steep but parties less comfortable on ice should maybe consider screws. Also be aware of rockfall on this section.

The route from Schurman to the summit is still in good form with surface conditions ranging from glacial skeleton to fresh snow. Like the last post said be aware that the worn-in bootpack does not necesarily follow the current best path up. Check in with the ranger at Schurman for the latest details, and be prepared to use your own eyes and brain as you climb.

August 8th

Not much has changed on the route since the last post. More nice weather has brought more melting to the upper mountain, exposing a bit more glacier skeleton between Schurman and the Flats and causing a few detours coming into camp.

The route itself is a lot of fun right now with everything from textured glacial skeleton to steep snow along the way. Be prepared for a bit of minor route finding on the upper mountain as the existing bootpack does not "go" in several places, requiring a bit of a detour to get around.

Also, be wary of the glacial moats that form along the rocks on both the Emmons AND Winthrop glacier sides of Camp Schurman. While walking in the area just around camp is not notoriously dangerous, climbers should be cautious when moving around as the potential for a fall is there.

Elsewhere along the route, the Glacier Basin trail is in great shape. If camping at Glacier Basin, be especially careful to hang your food, as bears have been a minor issue lately in the area. Also, the Inter Glacier has transitioned to almost total water ice below 8000'. Be prepared to deal with this part of the route in whatever way makes your group comfortable.

July 31st

Warm temps and sunny weather have made for high summit rates on the Emmons. The route is still in fantastic shape. Snow bridges are soft in spots, but the route is direct and is unchanged since the last post. There are a few spots of raw glacier skeleton showing up between Emmons Flats and Schurman, as well as along the Corridor. This generally makes the crevasses easy to see and safer to navigate.

The Inter Glacier is slowly moving to later season form. While still very much passable and a great part of the climb, climbers should be aware of icy sections and cracks opening up. Rope up and remember that you're on an active glacier, and that means crevasses will be present.

The route from the top of the Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman follows a meandering line along the lower Emmons Glacier. This part of the climb is easy to navigate, but much like the Inter Glacier, shouldn't be taken too lightly as there are plenty of large crevasses to negotiate.

The route above Schurman has been following a consistent line for several weeks now but the mountain will be forcing a change soon. Climbers are making their way through Emmons Flats to the Corridor, then heading left from the top of the Corridor into a small basin to gain the upper slopes. From there, a long traverse of the upper mountain gains Liberty Saddle and after an end around one large crack, the final section to Columbia Crest is all that's left. As for the change, cracks and bridges along the current bootpack will force a route variation soon. Rangers noticed a potential path leading right from the top of the Corridor into an upper mountain 'meadow' of sorts; this is likely a fun variation right now, but could turn into the more common pathway to the top very soon.

But, regardless of what path you'd like to take to the top, come out and enjoy the great weather with us on the mountain. The Emmons-Winthrop is still in great form and a fun objective.

July 15th

Lately there have been many people having fun and successful climbs on the popular Emmons/Winthrop , with plenty of opportunities for more. The weather looks good and the route is in better than normal condition. I expect it to stay that way. It is just as quick as the current DC route and the route finding is as easy as well. The EW has a trench to follow much like the DC. The well traveled EW route has no bottlenecks or fixed lines unlike the DC. Come and check it out.

The route is still very direct for the most part, although climbers are now opting to traverse to Liberty Saddle and around the right side of the bergschrund, instead of taking the direct line to the summit.

The hike through Glacier Basin and up through the yellow hill to the Inter Glacier is in full bloom. It is beautiful with lots of glacier lily, paintbrush, lupine and many other flowers at their peak.

The Inter Glacier is also in great shape, although snow bridges are starting to melt and show the crevasses underneath, so be prepared to break out your ropes and harnesses for maximum safety. The skiing conditions are still holding up. The snow surface is smooth, but conditions are melting rapidly.

June 23rd

Come hang out in the sun! The Emmons route is still in excellent condition, with good consolidated snow and a very direct line to the summit making for excellent climbing. Many people have been having great trips in the past few weeks and the conditions are prime for more superb climbing.

The Inter Glacier is in excellent shape and the skiing is still good. The bootpack is well worn in and is now just as fast if not faster than skinning up the glacier. One crack is opening up at the top of the second pressure ridge and can be easily bypassed to either side. The route from Camp Curtis to Schurman via the Emmons is still straightforward, although now it takes a wider path around some crevasses that are opening up near Schurman.

From Schurman the route takes the normal path up the Corridor, then goes climber's left around some cracks before bearing right again and continuing on a very direct line to the summit. The best way to get over the bergschrund is now between the upper and middle 'schrunds on a large ramp. From there it is a simple walk to the top. The skiing is still very good on the upper mountain and the Inter Glacier.

June 5th

An ascent of the route on June 4th found great climbing conditions, obviously very similar to those described in the attached trip report from June 2nd. The Glacier Basin trail is nearly snow free until Sherwood Forest and continuously snow covered from there to Camp Schurman. Travel early in the day to avoid soft conditions or be prepared with snowshoes or skis.

Due to the warm weather, one crevasse has begun to open on the Inter glacier. Use caution when ascending it as the summer progresses. When nearing the top of the Inter, two options for reaching Camp Schurman are commonly used. The most common route is to travel directly to a prominent saddle between the Inter and Emmons glaciers, descent to the Emmons, and then up to Camp Schurman. It would be wise to rope up for this section of the trip as some crevasses negotiation is required between the saddle and Camp Schurman. The other, less commonly used option, travels directly over Steamboat Prow, the prominent rock structure behind Camp Schurman. This route descends a ridge line consisting of unconsolidated volcanic rock. This option requires tricky, somewhat exposed rock scrambling that can be especially difficult to navigate with a heavy pack.

The route itself is in fantastic shape. Travel from camp up to the "Corridor” is direct with few open crevasses. But tell-tale depressions in the snowpack suggest some cracks will become more visible soon. On this trip the bit of wind when leaving camp dissipated quickly as we gained elevation.

Above the corridor, the main boot pack winds a bit to climber’s right then back again before approaching the bergschrund high on the mountain. Several crevasses must be negotiated and any snow bridge should ALWAYS be evaluated before crossing, regardless of the boot pack. With warm weather on the upper mountain nearly every day, the route (and stability of snow bridges) is constantly changing.

High on the mountain, most climbers are taking a nearly direct line to the crater rim, with some electing to traverse climber’s right up to the saddle above the Winthrop Glacier. If taking a direct line above the bergschrund, a bit of icier terrain must be negotiated.

See you on the mountain!

- S. Hotaling

In addition, we received this trip report from Stacy Czebotar, thanks!

Hello Climbing Rangers - On June 2nd, 2009 I successfully climbed the Emmons route with my friends Michael Wyckoff, Chris Pugh and Kinnan Murray. The route from White River Campground was straightforward, with a significant amount of snow still on the trail. Make sure to stay to the right as you enter Glacier Basin, due to weakening snowbridges over the creek on the left. NPS had put in some small red flags between the time we ascended and our hike out, so it should be well marked.

The Inter Glacier was in great shape - no noticeable crevasse openings, and the descent onto the Emmons was very straightforward with two small crevasses to hop over before arriving at Camp Schurman. Somebody in another group did punch through a crevasse just before camp in the later afternoon with the snow was very soft, so use caution! We began our climb at 12:30 am, due to the fact that the day was scheduled to be very warm. The wind was significant at Camp Schurman, but by the time we reached the Corridor, there was almost no wind whatsoever. The route was incredibly straight forward and filled in. There is one punch-through crevasse several hundred feet out of camp, and then we crossed one small snowbridge after the Corridor, which was in great shape.

The bergschrund was accessible via a large snowbridge, and so we chose to ascend the Emmons directly, instead of traversing around to the Winthrop Saddle. The snow was hard and well consolidated, with the last several hundred feet to the crater rim being mostly solid ice, which required careful foot placement, but posed no problem to our group. We arrived at the summit and had the entire mountain to ourselves - it was spectacular. This was our third attempt on the mountain after being weathered off for the past two years, so victory was sweet! There was some wind on the summit, but not much.

After a quick break, we opted to head down the route via the Winthrop Saddle, since we were not sure how the steeper sections in the last 1500ft of the Emmons would be holding up under the intense heat. The descent via the Winthrop traverse was uneventful, and the slog down the rest of the Emmons was tiring as we were postholing most of the way down in heat and very little breeze. Camp was a welcome sight ... as most mountain climbers know, every summit climb is a round trip - we were ecstatic to have summited the mountain, and even happier to make it safely back to camp.

Thanks again for all that you do ... we are all employees of Washington State Parks (two Rangers and two Construction and Maintenance specalists), and we appreciate all of your hard work!

Sincerely, Stacy Czebotar

June 4, 2009

The Glacier Basin trail is melting quickly, but it is still more than 50 percent snow covered. The spring trail up the Inter Fork bypassing Glacier Basin is officially melted out with no good spot to cross without getting wet. The preferred trail makes a switchback and is well marked with NPS wands by our backcountry rangers.

The Inter Glacier is filled with snow all the way down to Glacier Basin, and parties have also been traveling the yellow hill. There are no crevasses opened up on the Inter yet, but depressions are forming where there will be. The snow conditions have been soft spring slush, with postholing conditions possible in the afternoon. Skiing is still great. The traverse to the Emmons from Camp Curtis is still mostly snow but is melting quickly.

Now for the Emmons: earlier this week parties were following the boot pack to Liberty Saddle, and that is still a viable option. The most direct way is straight up through the double schrund which is well filled in. The snow conditions are still relatively soft up high, but will likely change with the marine air push this weekend. Come up and enjoy the Mountain!

May 23rd 2009

Route is in very good shape. Very filled in and straightforward glacial travel. Climb early to avoid afternoon postholing. Also beware of Avy danger on steep slopes on the Inter Glacier approach, again early travel is better. The late morning skiing on the Inter is beautiful. More to follow....

No reports yet, but the route should be in great shape. Check out the road access and registration info. below.

White River Approach:

Currently the road is closed at the park boundary on 410. You can park in the snow-play parking lot and start your climb there; turn left on Crystal Blvd and the parking lot is just to your right. (Do NOT park in front of the gate on 410 itself - you can be towed). Self-registration is possible 24 hours a day at the White River Ranger Station.The road to White River Campground is scheduled to open 08:00 on 05/20/2009. On this date you should be able to park at the campground and start your approach there. Be sure to stop and self-register at the ranger station on your way by. Entrance facilities at White River are scheduled to start operating 05/22/2009. Register in person at the ranger station beginning on this date.

Tatoosh Range-2009

2009-06-30T15:07:00.000-07:00

6/30

It is almost "The Fourth," but the skiing is still hanging in there on the north-facing slopes of the Tatoosh Range! Access to the upper bowls around Castle Peak and Pinnacle Peak is a little bushwhacky just above the Reflection Lakes parking area. Plan on a mixture of hiking, booting, and skinning to reach the goods. Once you're up there the views can't be beat. Get here quick though, the suncups are building and the scree slopes are melting out fast!

Sunset Ridge - 2009

2009-06-25T11:45:00.001-07:00

Sunset Ridge - 2009

On June 17, 2009, climbing rangers Philippe Wheelock and Rachel Mueller climbed Sunset Ridge, accessing the route via the Westside Road. While conditions were poor and navigation required significant reliance on their GPS, the team summitted on their third day and descended via the Disappointment Cleaver the following morning.

As with previous years, the Westside Road is closed and hiking is required for ~3 miles before accessing the S. Puyallup River cutoff at Round Pass. The ~1.5 miles to the S. Puyallup River camp is on rock and dirt, but the trail is washed out in places.

After crossing the S. Puyallup River, expect to do some postholing and to cross an avalanche path (several times) as you switchback and make your way up to the ridge below St. Andrews Park. Bivies as you rise above St. Andrews are plentiful, but expect to shovel out a tent platform and melt snow for your water.

The trip from the Puyallup Cleaver to the base of Sunset Ridge crosses two glaciers. The first, the Puyallup Glacier, is a wide, flat bench with solid footing and straightforward navigation. For the second, the South Mowich Glacier, expect to cross some bridges and look deep into some impressive crevasses as you make your way below the rockfall and avalanche debris of the southern edge of Sunset Ridge.

For bivies along this section of route, there are some options at or around 9200'. The ridge between the glaciers could be an option (the team saw elk tracks from here!), but an even better option is probably the ridge on the north side of the Sunset Ridge.

The bergschrund crossing was full value, with unconsolidated snow and deep postholing - super fun! (Above the bergschrund there are some other bivy options, most notably between 10,200' and 10,300'.) The route includes some enjoyable climbing through snow gullies and some ice.

At 12,500, the guidebook references being forced onto the Mowich. The rangers transitioned just below this altitude and traversed below a rockband that probably could have been avoided had they stayed on the ridge a little longer (a little better visibility would have seriously helped at this point!).

After some steep climbing on the Mowich Face, the ridge is gained again. To reiterate, with poor visibility, to call the GPS "handy" would be an understatement.

Another low visibility routefinding note... from Liberty Cap to the summit crater, it's probably a cakewalk in clear conditions (a long cakewalk, but straightforward). In whiteout, stormy conditions, the fall line off Liberty Cap will draw you toward the Tahoma. You'll want to fight gravity and stay left. Perhaps an extra waypoint on the summit shoulder would help you stay clear of this 'terrain trap' of sorts.

Wilson Headwall - 2009

2009-06-17T13:40:00.000-07:00

June 13-15th Mike Porosky, Joseph Bonn, Max Wakefield and I climbed the Wilson Headwall in favorable weather and route conditions. On Saturday we followed the seam between the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers to the base of the Wilson Cleaver, where we trended climber's left, crossed below Fuhrer's Finger and Thumb, and set camp at 9,500' on the Wilson. We camped as low as possible while still remaining within striking distance of the upper mountain and on somewhat level terrain. This site is subject to avy and icefall hazard; all factors considered, we felt it was a reasonable place to camp and had zero issues.On Sunday we got off to a late start, leaving camp at 4:15 a.m. From camp, you can go climber's left (traversing a moderately steep slope above several crevasses), middle (maximum ice/rock/avy exposure), or right. We began far climber's right, quickly crossing the rock/ice/avy debris path with one running belay (picket) and ascending towards climber's left in the headwall. In general, we stayed climber's left, not in the center, and resisting the temptation to climb to extreme climber's left, which would have taken us too high and just below the Kautz Icecliff. This time of the season this year there was one clear spot to cross from left to center headwall above a cliff band. I didn't record the elevation, but the picture should show it well. From here we zig-zagged between cliff bands, notably taking a ramp up high on climber's left. Near the top of the headwall we wrapped around climber's right, emerging at the top of Wapowety Cleaver. From here, we took a nice direct line to the crater rim, topping out around 1:15 p.m. The descent provided four options which we considered. The Kautz is a known quantity, but it requires some technical work that can slow things down, and it required a circuitous route back to our camp on the Wilson. We could have walked back down the Wilson Headwall, which in retrospect may have been an okay option, but we were concerned about rock- and icefall (or people-fall down the slightly steep slope), especially during the warm time of the day. We wanted to descend the gut of the upper Nisqually Glacier, above the Nisqually Icefall, but were concerned that crevasses may block our access to the area above Fuhrer's Finger. We opted for a descent from the top of Wapowety Cleaver down the ridge, angling towards the top of Fuhrer's Finger. This option proved a little tricky, with very hollow snow slowing our progress. We eventually made our way to Fuhrer's Finger, and cruised down it no problem. In retrospect, the Nisqually option would have likely been by far the fastest, easiest, and safest descent route. Summary: The Wilson Headwall is a nice, accessible, intermediate-level climb for those looking to try a different route on Rainier with a tolerance for some hazard exposure. It is a walk-up that requires comfort cramponing up steep-ish (38-45 degree-) slopes, occasionally using the pick of the ax in dagger position for security. We did not use our second tools or ice screws, though with different conditions and comfort levels they may be needed. There was surprisingly little rockfall when we were on the route. All in all, this route is a nice early season intermediate climb but may be the most fun as a winter or early season ski.- Liam O'Sullivan

Tahoma Glacier 2009

2009-06-04T12:59:00.000-07:00

Tahoma Glacier - June 15th

Steve Cizik, Matt Riegner, Brandon Chalk, J. Weingast, Ryan Aldrich, and Nico Cizik climbed the Tahoma on June 12th through 15th. Here is their trip report:

June 12
After checking in at Longmire we parked along the Westside road and began our climb. We decided to leave the snowshoes in the car after talking to the ranger at Longmire. This turned out to be a wise decision. We found the Tahoma Creek Trail just as the Westside road began to switchback. The first quarter mile of the trail was washed out but clearly marked with colored tape. Other than that, the trail was relatively easy to follow all the way to the junction with the Wonderland trail (suspension bridge) where we stopped for lunch. The Wonderland Trail became snowed out around 5000ft. however it was relatively easy to find our way to the top of the Emerald Ridge and our first camp at about 6000ft.
June 13
From our first camp, we entered the toe of the Tahoma Glacier with ease and began our climb up the lower section. The snow was soft but easily packed so there was no need for floatation and we were all very glad we didn't carry our snowshoes this far. It was around 1pm when a thunder storm moved in very quickly leaving us exposed and in danger. Not a good feeling when all the metal gear on your pack starts to buzz, so we decided to set up our second camp at 10,000ft. Once the storm passed, Steve and I did a scout mission to find a route through the ice fall and seracs above. This ended up saving us at least and hour of route finding the next day.
June 14
Roped up and climbing by 4am. Thanks to our route finding the previous day we knew to work our way to the far (climber's) left side of the glacier before hitting the steep head wall at 11,000ft. From there we zigzagged up the center of the wall (35 - 45 degree slope) then traversed to the right below the seracs above to reach the snowfield on the right side of the glacier at 12,000ft. We reached the top of the glacier at 9am where the bergschrund seemed to extend the entire length. We chose (what looked like) the most solid snow bridge and began to cross. Steve crossed first without a problem, followed by Matt. Just as he made it to the other side, the entire snow bridge collapsed bringing with it about 5 feet of the ledge and Matt into the crack. Luckily we had him roped up on both sides and the debris from the bridge wedged itself in the crack making the fall light and allowing Matt to simply walk out the other side. This was by far the scariest moment any of us had experienced on a mountain. There were maybe two other options to cross which were sketchy at best. We chose the best looking one and finally got everyone across. From there we took a short break and ascended to the 1400ft. to the summit by noon. We set up camp in the crater to shelter ourselves from the wind and enjoyed the good weather while on top.
June 15
Woke up around 6am as the first guided group made the summit. We met our other team (ascending DC) around 9am and hiked all the way out to Paradise via Disappointment Cleaver.

May 24

Trip report from Jiri Richter:

James Hamaker, Thomas Baron and I climbed the Tahoma Glacier on Mount Rainier on May 22nd - 24th. Expecting challenging snow conditions we brought 2 pairs of skis and one pair of snowshoes. Also because the Westside road is still closed we added another half day to our plan and left on Friday at noon. After registration at Longmire we parked the car at the gate and started hiking up the road around 4:30pm. The road is snow free but the parking lot is still snow covered. For approach we chose the early season variation via the old Tahoma Creek trail. The trail is well marked and joins the Wonderland trail in about 2.2 miles. We followed the trail until it got lost under snow and then went cross-country in the direction of Emerald Ridge where we set up our first camp as the light started to dim. The elevation was about 5,000 feet.
Next day we went up the glacier travelling on skis and snowshoes having the vast lower Tahoma Glacier to ourselves.

Lower Tahoma Glacier

By noon we were at 10,000 ft. It was too early to stop so we started speculating how far to go. We decided to go to the top of the steep section between Tahoma Cleaver and Sunset Amphitheater. Snow started turning into slush and going got slower and harder. The intense sunshine and increasing altitude were not helping much either.

Upper Tahoma Glacier

By 12,000 feet all we wanted was a safe flat spot to set up a camp. We found one 2000 feet higher on the col between Point Success and Columbia Crest around 8 p.m.

On Saturday we didn’t get out until the sun lit up our camp. We packed and from there it was a short walk to the true summit.

We descended Ingraham Direct which is the route of choice for now. I hitched a ride from Paradise back to the car and went back up to get the guys and gear. By 4 p.m. we were enjoying some real food at Copper Creek.